Field Force to Lhasa 1903-04

C/o of WA Ravenkill Esq Caranpera, November 12 1904

2009-11-13T12:00:00.004Z

My Dear Delia,

At last I have time and opportunity to again write to you. I can't remember when I last wrote to you but I think it must have been from Chumbi so I had better begin from there. We left on October 22nd and had a fairly good nine days march to Selling arrived on the 30th. The worst march was the one over the Talap Pass which was covered with snow. I had the greatest difficulty in getting my Enteric Fever cases carried - in fact near the top I had to get him carried and put him on a mule with two men holding him on either side. We did not get in to camp at Gnatong until 6pm and we had started at 7am.

Next day we left the snow and coming down 5000 feet got in to almost tropical vegetation and fine scenery. We now began to feel the heat rather and had to begin marching at 6am which meant getting up at 4am. At Kalinpang we came across sfddsf again for the first time and one of the Gunners and I dined at the Forrest Officers bungalow that evening and met some ladies. In our beards and stained khaki uniforms we must have looked awful ruffians but we had a most cordial reception everywhere.

On arriving at Siligore I found orders for me and my hospital to entrain at 2 am the next morning so I spent the remainder of the day handing over my ambulance mules to the Commissariat, paying off my Tibetan Doolie bearers and getting rid of my sick. At Silinger Railway Station we finely enjoyed our meals at the refreshment place and as we were about 30-40 officers together we had a great dinner that evening.

We entrained at 11 am in a siding and travelled all next day arriving at Calcutta at 7am on November 1st. We found carts awaiting us to take our baggage to the camping ground at the station hospital Calcutta, After reporting my arrival and seeing my tent pitched I have breakfast with one of my RAMC fellows stationed there and drove to Kings where I picked up some boxes of coats and kits and drove to the Grand Hotel and took rooms. I found several of the officers returning from Tibet already there and we had a most jovial time altogether. I spent a week there altogether going up to the hospital every morning and "demobilising" and spending the rest of the day gadding about. I called on my old Mess there the 2nd Q0 Rajput LF and dined with them on guest night on Friday. I also dined out with an old gunner pal of mine and his wife - old Dover pals - and with some of my own Fellows did 4 theatres and did no end of shopping - so my time was pretty well occupied.

The last 4 days I had to tackle my heavy kit - get rid of some - send some around to Bombay to await the transport, and some to go with me. I found this a very big job and thought I should never finish it. I finally demobilised the dear old Hospital on November the 7th and took round flying "Fox" my pony to the Auction rooms to be sold as a Lhassa Winner. He was to have been sold on Thursday last but I have not heard the result yet.

On Wednesday evening the night - I and four other fellows travelled up here by the Punjab Mail leaving at 9.30pm and arrived here on Thursday at 5pm and received a most cordial reception from Ravenhill an old Fatahyaah pal of mine. I am having a nice rest here now. Last night I met Major and Mrs Hawkins, you remember old pals of mine at the Club - and we all retired after Tennis to the Club for oysters - being Friday Oyster Night!!! I ate 2 and a half dozen - so had nothing to complain about. Tonight Mr Ravenskill and I are dining with them and I am going to take them to an amateur performance at the theatre here. This afternoon we play tennis again. I shall probably leave for Talahyaah on Monday or Tuesday the 14/15th and stay four to five days there go on to Raoakee to see B. Mrs Young is staying at Fatahaya on a visit and I will luckily see her too.Captain and Mrs Young for the last year have been living at Simla.

No letters from you for the last fortnight as they have been unable to catch up with me but I shall get them at Raoakee as I expect this was the only permanent address I could leave at Calcutta. However I hope you are all well and going strong. I sent you a group of the officers of the Lhassa column taken by Claude White - it is not very good, it was taken at Lhassa. Well much love to all and I am finally enjoying my holiday and living like a Fighting Cock. I enquired about my Gyantsee parcels at the dead letter office at Calcutta but got no satisfaction on the way down all the parcels were lost for weeks in an open shed - got thoroughly rotted by the rain and practically destroyed labels addresses everything and now nothing can be deciphered. I expect there will be an enquiry as some officers spent R90 to R100 on postage alone. I spent R30. But the P.O. says it was the General's fault because he wouldn't provide Transport.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil Mainprise

Ends

Chumbi October 20th 1904

2009-10-21T16:28:00.001+01:00

My dear Delia,

Well at last we have got back safely to Chumbi. We were fortunately the first column so did not meet with the snow blizzard between Phari and Tuna which the second column experienced however we received the snow in camp here. The night we arrived it began to rain and at 11pm when all were asleep turned in to snow. We slept unconsciously until the weight of the snow brought down our tents and there was everyone of us suffocated by the weight of the snow on our chests and then there was the dreadful ordeal of having to crawl out in to the blizzard and try to erect our tents again - as the poles were mostly broken this was an impossibility and several men had to walk about all night.

Of course everything in the tent became wet and it was impossible to dry anything as it continued to pour all next day and the camp was running in slush and water - one got soaked every time one left the tent and could not even reach the Battery for one's meals. However with a tin of biscuits and soup made out of a Soup Tablet I managed to survive the day. All of us agreed that it was the worst day that all of us had ever spent. This was how Chumbi greeted us. It finished off an Enteric case who had been lingering here for the last four months, a Fusilier whom I left behind when we advanced. Poor fellow we buried him yesterday

We march again the day after tomorrow on our last march to Silingor where we arrive on the 30th. I tried to write to you yesterday 'Sailing December 15th' as this would also mean that I have arrived here safely but the snow has brought down the telegraph wires and we are cut off from India. The march from Gyantsee was fairly comfortable except for the early mornings when we occasionally had 25 degrees frost. I am much looking forward to my leave until I am back - if I get it. There is much to do after arriving at Calcutta, demobilising the hospital, handing in my equipment and squaring up the business but after a few days I should be able to get off. I am wondering what my kit stored for the last year at Kings my agent in Calcutta will look like - I hope they have not all been eaten up by white ants.

I received another English mail yesterday, letters from Lady Hapwood. Bertie, I am sorry to hear that you have received so few letters from me while at Lhassa - it is quite possible they have been stolen for the stamps because I wrote dozens of letters while I was there. It is bad news to hear that things on the Stock Exchange are as bad as ever. B tells me that he has already sent you £20 - as his share of the rent for the next year - and I will send you my £20 directly I have arrived in India and have time to look about and unpack. You might like to tell Grandma that her cheque for £10 will arrive the end of the month. A week before I left Lhassa I sent you £2 for a certain purpose. I hope this letter has not been stolen - It was a cheque an 19th September. Your letter received yesterday spoke of your good time at Waybridge on Holt where you were staying. You mustn't worry too much about the illnesses of the youngsters - babies are often ailing but pick up again rapidly.

Well no more I am very fit. Much love to all

Your affectionate brother

Cecil Wilmot Mainprise.

Kolatso October 12 1904

2009-10-09T11:24:00.003+01:00

My dear Delia,

I don't think I have written to you since leaving Lhassa but we have been doing nearly double marches every day and do not get in to camp until 4pm when one is too tired to write. We are now only five days march from Chumbi where we halt for about four days and then we have nine days march to Siligueri and then India - one month's leave and home for England on December 15 by the "Assaye". You have probably already heard of this from Bertie to whom I wrote from Gyantsee.

We have not had bad marches up to date - the only discomfort has been turning out at 6am in 15-20 degrees frost - also the evenings are very cold. We are carrying a good number of men in our Ambulance Mules as the long march blisters their feet rather. The two cases of Enteric fever I have been carrying from Lhassa are also doing well though it is difficult to arrange about feeding when on the march. My Tibetan Doolie bearers have carried them splendidly. Some of the places or passes through which we have had to pass were so narrow that the Doolies could scarcely pass. We have had quite fine weather up to date, no snow has fallen - the hills around however are all covered with snow which makes the wind so cold.

It will be good getting home about the first week in January. I do hope I can get some leave. Directly I have demobilised this hospital in Calcutta I will take leave and have a round of visits. I ought to get away about the 7th. Having picked up stores at Gyantsee we are now feeding much better. We have been doing well with English letters lately as we are going towards the post and the post towards us. I am remarkably fit and well though my nose has not an atom of skin on it and my lips are sorely cracked. Hoping that you have enjoyed your little summer jaunt to Waybridge. Do you remember I went there for a dance and had a day's boating on that river with people whose names I forget. We march tomorrow to Lachan near Guari.

Much love to all

Your affectionate brother Cecil

Gyantsee October 8th 1904

2009-10-09T11:11:00.003+01:00

My dear Bertie

We arrived here safely the day before after a pretty stiff march from Lhassa. We were mostly doing double marches and this with my hospital full of sick and carrying two Enteric patients was no joke. However we were glad to arrive here and receive our parcels full of luxuries, we have been denied so long. Many thanks for your 400 Cigarettes safely received. I also received from No 19 a warm Comforter which the Mater had commenced and Grandma finished - in it was enclosed some raisins for use on the March, I also received your letter from Simla telling me of your good time there but evidently you have not run across the Youngs there yet.

I have been so busy since leaving Lhassa that even when we arrived here I had no time to write. I have been busy writing my medical report on the hospitals work up here and then there is the hospital to square up - taking stock and striking off deficiencies. I yesterday received my orders for sailing, 'Tour Expired'. I am to leave India by the SS Assaye leaving on December 15th - this is good news is it not? I will probably have demobilised the hospital at Calcutta by the first week in November and then I shall apply for leave until the Date of Embarkation and come up to pay you a visit, I shall spend some of my leave at Fatehyark Cacaspue, probably look up a pal of mine at Allahabad (Miss Richards that was) and also the Youngs - a Grand Tour of my friends in fact. If I don't take some of the privileged leave due to me before I embark it will lapse though I still hope to get some more leave when I get home.

Your account of your meeting Mrs Younghusband was very amusing. There has been a lot of friction between the Garrison and the Mission Staff. We start off again to Chumbi which we are to reach in 9 marches - mostly double marches again. We march this time with the first Column - the 1st Royal Fusiliers and the Mountain Battery. We shall be pretty tired by the time we arrive. However we shall live much better on the march as the Mess have picked up here any amount of stores that have been accumulating since we left here for Lhassa. Keep any stamps marked Lhassa you have received on my letters -they are worth R/-8 each I understand in Calcutta. No time to write more though I shall probably have time to write on the march to Chumbi - you had better send this along to Delia as I am not writing to her.

Your Affectionate Brother Cecil.

I am sending along some photos but they are poor prints.

Tsabonang , Tibet 38 miles from Lhassa September 26th 1904

2009-09-18T11:41:00.004+01:00

My dear Delia,

Just a line, We are really on the march back, Though the very night before we started on Thursday a special messenger arrived with a message from Government wanting us to remain up for a few more weeks n order to alter the treaty in some way or other. We have just finished our third days march and though it has rained the last two evenings during the march, it has been fine. I was pleased to receive by the mail last night, a letter from you August 26th which had been mislaid somewhere and had not come up with the other English letters. We are all looking forward to receiving a few parcels tomorrow as we have received none since leaving Gyantsee on July 17 and for the last week I have not even had a Bazaar Cigarette to smoke even.

Much love. Am very fit.

Your affectionate brother Cecil.

Lhassa Tibet September 16th 1904

2009-09-18T11:37:00.003+01:00

My dear Delia,

It is now practically decided that we leave here now on the 23rd and that we ought to be at Siliguor by November 10th. This allows for two halts by the way - one for a week at Gyantsee and one for a few days at Chumbi. We are going on much the same way here. Yesterday we had the usual Thursday afternoon Gymkhana which passed the afternoon nicely and we have also finished up a Football Tournament to keep the troops fit and healthy. We used to have route marching occasionally but the boots of the men are so worn out and there are no more available so these had to be given up.

We are all rather badly for clothes although I think mine will do fairly well until I get back now. My underlinen is the worse for the native troops and followers they have more to get some Tibetan blankets and clothes of sorts but they would be too rough for us. I received a good english mail last time, two letters from Bertie, one from you Daisy Amy and Mrs Young of . I was glad to have you all well at home and that you had much enjoyed your trip to Plymouth.

It is getting colder every day up her and we are all hoping that we shall not find it very cold on our return journey. We have had heaps of congratulatory letters from the king Viceroy and Commander in Chief on our successful arrival in Lhassa and I am keeping them copied out in my diary as a good advertisement when I am out of a job. Well no more various news, Much love to all your affectionate brother Cecile.

PS I hear that Tibetans curios at Christie's are fetching large prices, The Tibetan scroll like the one I have sent to you fetched £20 so you had better see what you can get for any of them.

Lhassa, Tibet September 8th 1904

2009-09-06T19:13:00.004+01:00

My dear Delia

Since my last letter to you I have seen a good deal of Lhassa . We are now allowed to make up parties to go in to the city to shop. We had a great morning a few days ago. We found a bazaar or marketplace situated in a road which runs practically in a circle though the City. The best shops below to the Chinese or the Cashmere people but there are lots of stalls in the ordinary asdfsd exactly like the East End - on which are displayed all kinds of rubbish, old iron-ware, bead necklaces or vegetables, skin and leatherware. By entering the shops however and rooting out boxes and drawers we managed to find a few things to purchase. Anything of value however the people ask the most exorbitant prices for.

The inhabitants as a rule were very quiet and inoffensive but here and there are met with a truculent salesman who would hardly answer your question as to prices at all and appeared absolutely indifferent as to whether we bought anything or not.

Yesterday was a great day - the day for the signing of the treaty at the Potala or Dalai Lama's palace. The Hall in which the ceremony was to take place, being a small one - only a few Officers from every unit up here could be allowed to attend. I and my two assistant surgeons on the score of the length of time with the Force were luckily allowed to be present for everything. The road and entrance to the Potala were lined with Troops through which the General Mission Staff and those allowed to witness the ceremony passed. On arriving at the top of the Potala (no mean ascent) we passed through a passage lighted only by wicks floating in Oil, in to the Audience Chamber where were assembled all the chief Tibetans, Chinese, Bhuttanese Nepalese notabilities. The first thing that struck one was the huge throne of the absent Dalai Lama - covered up with curtains.

After refreshments of tea, dried fruits cakes, etc had been passed round - a speech was made by Captain O'Connor, interpreter, stating for what reason we had come here and what was now to take place. Being in the Tibetan "lingo", at least, this is what we believed him to be saying. The Treaty document was then opened and glanced at curiously by all present and then Colonel Younghusband said he wished those authorised to do so to sign. Then there was a great bustle and fuss as the secretaries of the different notabilities produced various gaudy colonial boxes in which their seals and paints were kept and all began a "mix up" of paints. When they were ready, O'Connor the Mission Secretary with a pencil showed each one where exactly to place his mark. The attitudes and demeanour of the various powers during this process was very funny to note. Some came up at once and made their mark, while others notably the Regent who had been put up in the place of the absent Dalai Lama - would not come up at all. In fact he looked the unhappiest man there - and didn't seem to be liking it one little bit. After the "Council of Four", the Heads of all the Chief Monasteries in Tibet had signed, Colonel Younghusband advanced and signed and sealed and then the Chinese Amban - Nepalese, Bhutanese residents signed. In fact I believe everyone who was important in Lhassa has signed the blooming document to make it all square. At all events they were signing for about 3 hours during which I took a stroll around the room.

In the side of it was cut off by huge iron rails or rather doors looking through which one saw hundreds of images and Buddhas - on a kind of altar place. Some of these idols were beautifully made and carved. On the other side of the room was a fine frescoed wall, the room itself was the usual pillared room with a gallery running round the sides like all the monasteries. After the signing of the document, more refreshments and cigarettes were handed round, and then Colonel Younghusband made his speech sentence by sentence in English - which was interpreted by O'Connor to the Tibetans and by another interpreter to the Chinese Amban and his entourage!! The sum of which was that we had been found by them very bad enemies but that if they kept the treaty they would find us as good friends. One of the Council of Four then made his speech which was shortly that they were very pleased that the treaty had been signed and now it was all over. And here the proceedings terminated and we went home at a hard gallop as it was about 6pm. Today all prisoners have been released and each has been given R5/-.

Your last home letters told of your comfortable journey and visit to Plymouth. With Grandma also wrote and said what pleasure your visit was giving her. I am glad you had the outing will do you all good, Still nothing definite about our return. I wrote a long letter to Grandma by the last post which I hope she will send on to you. I am keeping fit, my knee is alright again now, with much love your affectionate brother Cecil.

LhassaTibet

My dear Delia

Every week one of the Battery Officers gets copies or cuttings from the English papers about the doings of the Force and I see the Daily Mail and the Globe give the best account of our work - so I hope you will get them at all events the Daily Mail which Candler represents. I received your long letter last night, also Tim's telling me about the Anglo French Exploration Co - please thank him for this and say I am sorry I forgot to mention about his former letter which I did receive safely. I am not really nervous about my investing but it was because I received a Circular about the Anglo French Co which made me think it must concern the shares that I held, otherwise why had they sent me the prospectus . I am glad that Sheila (My Granny) had such a happy birthday. I am sorry I forgot about it but it is hard to remember in time to reach you on the proper date. I think there is no doubt that we shall start on Friday next, the 23rd. I have written Bertie a long letter that I hope he will forward on to you although I see from your letter yesterday he often forgets to enclose them. No more - don't forget about the papers.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil

PS I am enclosing a cheque for £2 please keep for yourself and have a little bust on it, The other please put in the plate for me at Church as a small thanksgiving for all God's many mercies to me and for my safe arrival here and I hope safe return. If you know any deserving person give it to her instead if you like - it will be the same thing.

Cecil
PPS: I have sent you home - note at the top of the letter. I am bringing much better things. Am enclosing telegrams so please keep for me.

Lhassa, Tibet 01-09-1904

2009-09-06T19:09:00.004+01:00

My Dear Bertie,

Not very much news to chronicle. There is still some doubt as to whether we shall get down on the 14th-16th. The only excitement here has been the Lhassa Sky Meeting which finished up with three days racing. My pony came in yesterday first in the 12-1 class and was second in the Lhassa Handicap on the second day so we did pretty well. He was made favourite in the Lotteries -50/- & 32/- & 42/- which meant for the whole ticket 100/- 64/- &84/- - the lottery being about 300/- so I didn't win much on the whole.

We now have a Rifle Meeting on - a few days ago Mr Claude White, Political Officer - took a group of the General Staff Officers of the Lhassa Column - so I hope to be able to get a copy eventually. Mr White has a very fine camera and I think is taking pictures for the Government of India.

No parcels have been received since we left Gyantsee - so I have not received your cigarettes yet - we are all reduced to coarse Tibetan tobacco leaf - which some of the pipe smokers have managed to so smoke a little - and some very bad 'Pedro' cigarettes which one can buy in the Bazaar - but are mostly mouldy from being years in Lhassa. Everything in Lhassa is old, even to the eggs which are mostly "good in parts" - generally we have them fried as the opening process takes place in the kitchen - I one morning said I would have my eggs boiled. They appeared but after opening five and finding every one bad, I gave up the process.

We have had lots of rain here in fact every night. Everything is quiet except we had an attack by a Lama on two Sikh fellows in the Bazaar the other morning. One fellow was badly slashed over the head with a sword - the other - Kelly - carried only slightly in the head. Next day we publicly hung the Lama and left him hanging for 24 hours as a warning to others.

I have collected a lot of curios of sorts, about £15 pounds worth which will do for presents when I get home. Some of my friends have written to ask me to spend money on curios for them but I cannot really manage it as I can't transport them down, and another thing is - all curios of any value are at once snapped up and are very difficult to obtain as we are not allowed to enter Lhassa except as escort to the General or Younghusband, which have only once formed. All the Medical Officers visited the Lhassa Medical Hall and found it a great fraud. None of the "professors" had the least idea of Medicine or Surgery.

Hoping you are fit

Yours affectionately

Cecil Wilmot Mainprise.

Lhassa Tibet Sunday August 28th 1904.

2009-08-28T17:40:00.002+01:00

My dear Delia,

I think I have more news to give you this time. On the 29th we had the Lhassa Race Meeting and we all had great fun and excitement. In the race I entered my young pony Flying Fox for - the Lottery he was made favourite and sold for R84/- - I took half of this as I thought he had a good chance to win the prize of over 350/-. But unfortunately he got off badly at the Start and did not win - coming in fifth out of 12 entries. However yesterday he came in 2nd in the Lhassa Handicap - so I did not lose much after all. If the race had been twenty yards longer he would have been first as I caught up with the leader rapidly at the end.

I unfortunately was not present at the race yesterday as I had twisted my knee again the day before and had to lie up - but this morning my knee is better again. This is the first time I have really hurt my knee since leaving Silingore so I can't complain.

The day before yesterday Thursday 4, all the medical officers with the PMO went to inspect the Lhassa School of Medicine but we found the Institution a great fraud - it is really a monastery and the Head of the College had not the faintest idea of either Medicine or Surgery nor had any of the other Lamas. I think their's must be faith cure only - apparently they never "cut" and their drugs are all herbs of the most primitive kind, They didn't even know the position of the various organs of the body - they pointed to the right side of a man and said being a man his heart was on the right side, They also said the liver made the lips? and the spleen, if diseased, caused the eyes to become dull. They had no surgical instruments to show - no medicines - and could not even show us any patients and yet this is the only Medical Hall in Tibet,. So you can see we have discovered another fraud in Tibet. In fact Lhassa is the City of Frauds in my opinion.

We were to have finished up the races with a concert last night but at about 8pm such a storm came up that it was impossible to have it. It came down in Torrents and the thunder reverberating amongst the high hills around here, sounded very grand. Last night I received the English mail - your letter written just before you left for Plymouth and one from Grandmama with your note to it saying you had arrived safely. I should have much liked to have accompanied Tim on the steamer - it must have been dull going alone. It should have been the very thing I should have enjoyed. Do you remember our appetites directly you and I got on the SS Oliver and how we had to gsd our meals - and what a huge breakfast and dinner we used to eat, by waiting to have lunch. Yes!

I was very pleased to see that Bertie was a Captain. Two Captains in the family - now we are moving. I have collected about £10 worth of Lhassa Curios, principally jewellery. I hope you will like them. These are the best that I have collected up to now, comprising rings, necklaces ear-rings chatelaines - and cup holders besides Turquoise stones, most of these things are silver set with Turquoise. Everything of value here is very Expensive and some of the officers are spending hundreds of rupees on really worthless things - but as they have come from Lhassa they consider they all are of value.

You seem to have plenty of friends around you at No 26 - I hope you are looking out for some nice girls for me to take on the river or to the Exhibitions when I return. I think we leave here on the 16th of September - already several officers have left to make arrangements for our journey down. Goodbye dear Delia, much love, hoping you have enjoyed your holiday.

Your Affectionate Brother Cecil.

PS: Many congratulations on the "Capt'ing", sorry can't drink your health except in tea, This has just come in.

Lhassa Tibet, 10-08-1904

2009-08-04T22:11:00.002+01:00

My dear Bertie

We have arrived at our journey's end but I am afraid that I cannot tell you much of the City of Lhassa. We are camped about one mile from the City and so far we have only been allowed to go as far as the City gate. However from the hill overlooking the city we have been able to have a very fair sight of the place, the most prominent feature of which is the Palace of the Dalai Lama which is certainly a magnificent structure.

The ordinary people are quite friendly and come out of Lhassa every morning and form a bazaar outside our camp where most of the articles we are however suitable only for the Sepoy's food. This afternoon I shall go right in to Lhassa as the General is going to make a call on some of the Tibetan Hobnobs and I am going with the Escort.

We nearly had another engagement on Monday - the Tibetans refused to bring in supplies so we went out with a large force to a monastery called Debune where the 7000 fighting monks live and demanded grain. They refused to supply it so we gave them one hour to think it over. And began to make our disposition for an engagement. Just as time was up we saw a Crowd of Lamas filing out of the monastery with loads on their backs so we let them off for the once - but they are very truculent crowd and if they don't bring in enough - we shall have a go at them later. Instead of being well of now for supplies we are worse than ever we were and yet we are giving R4/- per pound for all grain brought in - which is about double prices. The Tibetans are fools - if they don't bring us grain they will have it taken away for nothing and lose all their money.

I received your letter safely telling me of Tayhams visit to the brothers at Ruoakee to say goodbye. We expect him here any day now. I received a nice letter from Tim thanking me for offering to subscribe towards the house rent but that he won't have it for more than a year as he thinks after that time things should look more flourishing. We are having warm but rainy weather so we are fairly comfortable here. Thanks for sending all of the cigarettes we will expect a parcel post shortly - the First for some weeks.

I am very fit - hope you are the same.

Much Love

Yours

Cecil Mainprise.

Lhassa Tibet 16-081904

2009-08-04T22:09:00.000+01:00

My dear Delia

I received your nice long letter also letters from Amy and Daisy Bull, by the Mounted Infanty two days ago. I was delighted to hear that you were going away for a change to Florence Wilkinson and afterwards I hope you will manage to get down to No 19 which you are sure to enjoy. When you go to the market on Saturday mornings, think of me and how often I remember it. I don't remember answering Tim's letter which he kindly wrote to me thanking Bertie and me for offering to subscribe towards the house rent of 26 Gladstone Road. Please thank him from me for this letter and say that I am only too delighted to give a hand in anyway and that the offer is not quite unselfish as on my return I am looking forward to spending some of my time at No 26 which I could not do if you gave up t he house so you must look on my Contribution as what I should have to spend at a hotel if Tim was not good enough to allow me to live with you. I really think we shall be leaving here about the 15th September and I ought to be home for Christmas. Great Scott! If I am what a "bust-up" I shall have.

I went in to Lhassa last week with the escort that accompanied Colonel Younghusband who was visiting the Amban (Chinese). There is very little to describe, the place it is quite as dirty as I expected. The inhabitants look the same as those at Phari or any other Tibetan city- there were apparently no aristocratic Tibetans to be seen anywhere and except for the Palace of the Dalai Lama, no sights to be seen. I believe we are to go shortly to the Arsenal at Lhassa which made the guns used against us and blow it up, but there are no definite orders out yet. They say the Tibetans have agreed to 6 Articles out of the 9 Articles forming the Treaty so we are getting along gradually. I wrote to Bertie by the last Mounted Infantry Mail and I expect he has sent the letter on to you. We are having a lazy time of it here - sometimes fishing, sometimes reading or "loafiing". We are all training ponies for the Lhassa race meeting to be held here shortly. I have entered my pony for a couple of races so now I turn out at 7.30 am every day to give him a gallop. So Arthur has returned to Aden - poor fellow it is no fun going back to duty after a spell at home. I know how I felt it. I was delighted to receive a dividend from the Anglo French Exploration Company for £5.10 for the half year so evidently they are improving.

Goodbye dear Delia.

I am very well hope you are the same.

Your Affectionate Brother, Cecil Mainprise

Love to Daisy Bull!!

6 miles for Lhassa, 02-08-1904

2009-08-04T22:05:00.001+01:00

My dear Delia,

A post goes back tomorrow at 6 am. We crossed the river safely and after three days marching arrived here this afternoon. We arrive at Lhassa tomorrow morning.

This afternoon nearly all the Lhassa Council with the exception of the Dalai Lama came in to have an interview with Colonel Younghusband -both Tibetan and Chinese and the array of costumes and head-dresses was very funny! I don't think there will be any more opposition. I received your letter safely two days ago thanking me for my birthday present and also Tim's - please acknowledge. Am very fit - good night - had a long march today from 7.30 to 4pm.

Yours affectionately,

Cecil.

Bramakputea, Botra River Tibet 28-07-1904

2009-08-04T21:46:00.004+01:00

My dear Delia,

Here we are within three marches of Lhassa. We arrived here three days ago and since then have been busy getting the troops across the river. We have not crossed yet but I have just learnt this afternoon from Colonel Waddell that I am to cross with my hospital tomorrow at 9am. We cross in two large barges captured from the Tibetans which are hauled across by ropes, dragged by our men on the other side of the river. The river is not more than 300 yards across but the current is very swift and strong. We were all much upset by the drowning of Major Bretherton, Chief Supply and Transport Officer, and the General's right hand man. He was a great friend of mine and always gave me anything extra I required for the Hospital. He was up here - Siliguer - some weeks before the Expedition started, arranging Commissariat for the Troops. That he of all men should die so untimely.

I am writing outside my Tent facing the river. Along the sandy road in front of me, troops of laden mules are passing to the ferry - these mules and "kits" are to cross the river this afternoon. It is like being encamped on the front of some watering place as there are about two miles of sand and hillocks which we occupy. The Battery crossed the river on the second day - so I for the last two days have been messing by myself. Luckily I have my reserve stores to fall back upon - you remember me ordering these from Calcutta the last time I was at Chumbi. The Commissariat here have run out of everything - you cannot even get a tin of butter or a pot of jam - no salt or sugar even. I expect that we shall all have crossed in another two days and then we shall start on our final three days march.

We are all very excited about seeing Lhassa but hope we shall not stop there for very long. If we could get back by October I ought to be off home by the first Transport - I think there is quite a fair chance of this. If I don't get leave at once I shall swear!! The Tibetans three months privilege leave I rather fear is only available in India. We have had better weather the last two day, nice and sunny though last night we had a sandstorm for a short time which rather blew our tents about. I hear a mail comes in this afternoon and hope there will be some letters for me. Whether it is an English one I cannot say. I received your last letter at asdgfasd . My diary which I have regularly kept up to say - but I think it was about 8 days ago (July 21st). I think I must have written to you after this but one gets so mixed up with the dates and days of the week.

I was glad to hear that you were all well at No 32. I sent off three parcels of "loot" of sorts so from Gyantsee which I hope will arrive in due course. I think you had better give most of it away to friends with my compliments - it is only valuable as coming from Tibet. That carved book cover is valuable and if cleaned and regilded should prove a handsome ornament. The scrolls want repairing as I had to remove the lower wooden shaft to make them lighter to go by post, All these were taken out of Monasteries - principally at Gyantsee - as also the Silk which I don't think is much good. I have recently got a few nicer things which I am carrying with me but will send off at the first opportunities. You mustn't scoff at the loot - there is nothing really valuable in Tibet. There is a strict order against looting now so I doubt whether we shall be able to get much more from Lhassa - however the Sepoys manage to pick up things and it is these that we buy from them - often at an absurd price, much more than they are worth.

I was delighted to get Amy's letter as well as yours. She is enjoying her stay with you immensely. Strange to say I was thinking of Plymouth the other day. I imagined myself starting off on Saturday for the market - and a glorious trip in my imagination. I was spending money like a Duke, buying peas, asparagus, flowers, white puddings, what ho! But when I do enjoy this trip once more how I shall miss dear Mother. You are right, one always especially associates Plymouth with our Dear Mother. Well dear Delia goodbye and love to yourself and the youngsters.

Remember me nicely to Tim

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

Brahmaputra River 25-07-1904

2009-07-23T13:49:00.002+01:00

My dear Bertie,

Here we are already at the river where we arrived yesterday after having crossed the Khamba Pass, 15,500 feet in the morning. This morning we marched 6 miles along the river to the place from which the Tibetan ferry starts. Here we luckily found two larger barges of sorts which the Mounted Sappers had managed to capture the day before. These boats hold about 40 men each or 20 mules and on these the troops have already begun to cross. The "Buthan" boats have not proved a success today at all events as when crossing this afternoon, several successful trips, one of the boats began to fill with water and thus upset the raft built between the two boats with the consequence that Major Bretherton, Chief Supply and Transport Officer was drowned and two Gurkha Sepoys. We are all very much upset by the accident as Major Bretherton was almost the most important Officer of the Force and was sure of some reward for all his hard work after the expedition closed. One of the Mounted Infantry was also drowned this morning trying to swim his horse across and another M I only reached the bank after a severe struggle. What with three gunpowder explosions, one falling cliff, two drowning accidents - we have not been very lucky. It is strange to think that we are now only 30 miles to Lhassa and could easily ride there in one day. We shall probably take three days or more to get everyone across. Where the ferry is - the stream is only about 200 yards across - but it runs very swiftly and there are some bad "eddies" due to a huge rock projecting somewhat in to the stream at this point. I think all opposition is now over as the "Kam" people who have been doing most of the fighting for the Tibetans have now almost all returned to their country "fed up" at their want of success. The Mounted Infantry yesterday saw them all retreating along the other side of the river. We are to encamp two miles from the walls of Lhassa and shall have opportunities of visiting the place in small parties. I hope we don't stop there too long - the one wish in the force is to see Lhassa and get back to India as soon as possible. We have had any amount of rain lately which has not added to the pleasure of our marches. Thanks for your letter written from the Drake Brackman's house. I expect you are now back at Ruoakee. I hope my next letter will be addressed Lhassa, from the Metropole Hotel.

Well so long. I am very fit,

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil Mainprise.

PS: I don't think the Sappers and Miners under Sheppard and Walker were in any way responsible for poor Bretherton's death -the stream was too strong for such a frail container. The boats were too light in such strong "eddies" and "tides". We are now only using the captured boats. Don't forget the cigarettes, I have only about 50 left.

10/8.04 B. Yes. Some clumsy "landlubber" put his foot through the canvas)

Peter Jong near Lhasa, 7 marches from Gyantsee, 23-07-1904

2009-07-23T13:40:00.002+01:00

My dear Delia,

Here we are now only three marches from the Sangpo River - how we are to cross this no one seems to exactly know. Since Karalo we have met with no more opposition and I really think the Tibetans are now tired of trying to oppose us. The last two days have been very wet and miserable. It is no fun arriving in camp in a perfect deluge of rain and having to pitch tents. The ground is so sopping wet that directly you unpack your bedding it gets wet also and covered with mud. Though it is the end of July, the hills all around are covered in snow and the wind blowing off them very chilly.

I received your mail letter and was very pleased to hear that you had celebrated my birthday so happily. I hope your own birthday was spent in as jovial fashion. I can quite imagine that Amy is a quite terrific guest to entertain as she would be delighted to give you assistance in the house where necessary and so thoroughly enjoys any show in town. When I hear of your little trips and of your nice pretty little dining room with the sun shining in of a morning, how I long to be home once more and have a little "easy", even a good breakfast of bacon and egg or some of that fine Light Dinner Ale from the shop at the corner of the road seems at present to be Elysium. There is no doubt "the stomach rules the man".

With the reinforcements that came up from India about 2 months ago, there came a Church of England padre who used to celebrate mass with us and the Battery. He was a fine looking, typical stout looking clergy and we all found him very nice. But poor fellow he got no further than Gyantsee. The hardships of the march and the plain food were too much for him. The day before we left - Gyantsee - he said to me. "For goodness sake - put me on the Sick List and leave me behind. I can't stand this life any more. I shall be eternally grateful to you if you do this for me." Well I did and he was left behind and we are now Padre-less. We often laugh over the Reverend Cola from Darjeeling who arrived so "chirpy" and keen to go up to Lhasa and in the end took the first opportunity to go back, all enthusiasm blighted by the hardship of the advance. His was a case of Stomach really. He was so afraid of starving that he filled himself up with anything that was before him with the results that he was always suffering from the qualms of indigestion. I knew he was ill and used to watch him eating with dismay - meat I was absolutely afraid to touch so hard and uncooked was it. He then told me the reason. We are now alongside a huge lake which extends for miles - Yamdok by name - and we have managed to catch some fish which are very acceptable as a change.

I was glad to hear about the Anglo French Exploration Company being all right - when they told me the shares had gone down 18/- per share, I had an idea they were only £1 shares to start with. The more to spend when I get home!!! There is some talk of the Mission only going on to Lhassa with a Small escort I hope this will not be the case. At all events I expect I shall go as they must make the escort principally European Troops and will require my Hospital. Well I must close as the post goes away by Mounted Infantry tomorrow morning. We march to Tamalung tomorrow, 12 miles. Much love, yours affectionately Cecil

Just now sent on 10/8/04

Karola 17-07-1904

2009-07-23T13:37:00.001+01:00

My dear Delia,

We arrived here this afternoon and we hear that the Tibetans are up at the Pass to oppose us, to the number of 5000. We are now four days out from Gyantsee and well on our road to Lhassa. We have had a comfortable march so far although we have had one very wet day . I am fit and well and going strong. Our posts now are very uncertain but I will post this at the first opportunity. We are all wondering what sort of show we shall have tomorrow, of course the enemy may bolt tonight. I have received your mail safely and am glad that all things are going on well with you. I think you have forgotten to answer about the Anglo French Exploration Co. I expect they will "buck up" shortly. The General and Staff have just gone out to reconnoitre the position for tomorrow's action.

Very many thanks for your birthday present - also Amy's - they are both quite useful and I am delighted to have this knife and fork - blow this pan!!!

No time for more. Much love to all, your affectionate brother, Cecil

Karola, 4 marches from Gyantsee 19-07-1904

2009-07-23T13:35:00.001+01:00

My dear Bertie,

I received your letter saying that you thought there was a probability of your coming up here. I should certainly bring up your pony if he is sure-footed, does not shy, and is fairly hardy. The General and staff have just gone out to locate the enemy where the Mounted Infantry report they are about 5000 strong so we shall evidently have a fight again tomorrow morning. We have had a fairly comfortable march from Gyantsee though one day we had to pitch our tents in pouring rain. I was very glad to leave Gyantsee as I had a very dusty camping ground and my Hospital was full of sick. We have now left most of the Sick behind. I don't think it will be Tibet for you - as we have left Haswall and most of the Bengal and Madras Sappers behind at Chumbi so evidently the General does not think this will be much work for the Sappers. The principal things to bring up however are: a small 40lb tent, Poshteens, Gilgit Boots, warm coat, Kakhi Serge Uniform and some cool clothes supposing you remain at Chumbi and do not come up high, also one box of stores - so there. It has not been really cold for some time but I expect we shall be up here for another winter. We captured a convoy of 118 yaks from the Tibetans last night. They were returning from taking food to the enemy at the Karola and were unluckily for them, ran in to our Mounted Infantry. We are all wondering if the Tibetans will wait for tomorrow. So long - not time for more, am very fit and well.

Your affectionate brother Cecil.

Gyantsee 11-07-1904

2009-07-23T13:24:00.004+01:00

My Dear Bertie,

We have now been here for a fortnight and on the whole I have done a fair amount of work including the taking of the "Tony". We started our fighting at Haini Monastery - 6 miles from Gyantsee - and the same evening came on here. The day after we arrived we had a rest and general look around. The Tony and the Monastery fired upon us most of the day but we had encamped out of range. The next day we moved out of the camp at 3am and began surrounding the villages around Gyantsee - most of which we took very easily. One on the side of a hill gave us a lot of trouble and had to be stormed by the Gurkhas and Pathans from both sides - here Captain Caas of the 40th Pathans and two other officers were wounded, beside some Sepoys. We got back to our new camp, the north side of the Tony at 8.30pm in the dark.

The next morning we had an armistice with the Tibetans as some delegates from Lhassa had arrived - this continued for three days - with no result. We now determined however to make our big attack on the "Tony" so at midnight on the 5th we moved out and took up our positions on the south east side of the Tony at Palla village where I had orders to found a Dressing Station.

At 3.30 all the Tibetans at the front of the Tony discovered us and began firing vigorously. Here the Sappers and Miners were trying to blow up a house - to form our first point of attack. Directly the explosion occurred, our attack began and continued for several hours, we eventually took the village at the foot of the Tony. At 5pm two fresh companies - of Gurkhas and Royal Fusiliers - were ordered to storm the side of the Tony through a breach in the Tony's walls made by the 7th M Battery. Under a tremendous fusillade and the shells of the Battery and Maxim fire! These troups made their way up the side of the Tony, beating back the Tibetans. It was a grand sight to see, our shells bursting only a few yards in front of our men thus clearing the Tibetans out of our way. As they ran out like rabbits from their covered ways and holes and from behind their Sanyars, so they were shot by the Maxim and rifle fire. At 6.46pm we had won the Tony after 16 hours of fighting. We had about 20 casualties including Gurdan of 32nd Pioneers, who was working with the Sappers and Miners. Sheppard as usual had a charmed life.

The next day we had a rest which we were very glad of as I had a lot to do in the hospital. Only one case required an operation - Bowden Smith, Lieutenant R& required a bullet extracted from the back of his neck. The next day I had to go with part of my hospital to Gyantsee - 14 miles from here - where the enemy were supposed to have fled to - but on arriving we found they had again retired. So we went one day and came back the next. During my absence a Company of the Fusiliers had been more or less blown up by gunpowder in the Tony so on my return I had my hands full dressing about a dozen badly burnt men - none luckily were killed.

This is a filthy camp here - clouds of dust all day long and one looks a regular sweep. I have received your letters alright and was delighted to hear of your good Shikar. I hear you are on your way back now - so I think I had better address this to Rao. We are now preparing for our advance to Lhassa. The orders at present are for Thursday the 14th. If you can manage to send me a couple of boxes of cigarettes I shall be glad, We shall probably get a parcel post on from here sometime or other. I hope to pick up some more "loot" curios tomorrow, but except as curios they are of no value.

Hoping you are fit - I am the above but somewhat "tired" - you know what I mean - a little comfort and luxury would be appreciated.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil.

Gyantsee 10-07-1904

2009-07-08T17:41:00.007+01:00

Dear Delia,

Since arriving here from Kanyma nearly a fortnight ago the whole force has been so busy that we have been unable to write. I only arrived here from Danytsee 14 miles from here - where we had been despatched to drive away the enemy who had retired there after the taking of the Tony - As a matter of fact the enemy did not wait for us. We were away altogether three days and were recalled as the rumour in the camp goes that we start for Lhassa on Wednesday the 13th inst.

The taking of the Tony - I must shortly describe. I was ordered to take my hospital to Palla village - from whence the attack was meant to start - and form a dressing station there for the wounded there. We left our camp at midnight the night before and arrived at Palla village at 2am. At 3.30 am, the enemy discovered the Sappers and Miners attempting to blow up a wall and immediately a blaze of fire broke out from the Tony and the Monastery. This was a very pretty sight as it was still quite dark.

The bullets were "whizzing" all over the place but except when we came out of our cover to see the show we were quite safe. I had a splendid view of the whole attack - made by three columns working forwards simultaneously who eventually took the village houses at the base of the Tung. The batteries then came in to action and shelled the Tony - for several hours -firing shells at any building which fired up on us. One never saw a Tibetan and anywhere - they moved about in hundreds all over the Tony by "covered" ways - hence our difficulty in locating them except by their fire.

Even when their shelters were blown to pieces by the battery shells - those who were unhurt escaped to another shelter or fort unobserved. Thus the attack went on for 12 hours and it looked as if we should never take the Tony.

At 5pm the General ordered one company each of the Royal Fusiliers and 8th Gurkhas to scale the fort through a break which had been made in to the Tony by repeated shellings of the Battery at one spot. I saw these men start from Palla and skirmish across the open towards the Tony. We all watched them breathlessly as the Tibetans poured a tremendous fire upon them. One Gurkha was hit in the leg after going only 100 yards - he was brought back by the Regimental Stretcher Bearers to me to dress. We saw them reach the base of the Tony and disappear - after about half an hour we saw to our delight a few struggling up the cliff taking advantage of every spot of "cover" to shield them from the enemy's fire.

All this time a tremendous fusillade was kept up on the Tony by every available rifle and gun of the Battery's to distract the attention of the enemy from the Storming Party. It was really wonderful to see a shell bursting only 30 yards in front of our men and our men taking advantage of the bursting of it to rush up to this very spot from which the enemy had up at that very moment fled. As they fled so the Maxim Guns mowed them down. Well as you know from the papers - we reached the summit of the Tony and the enemy were beaten. This Monastery still fired upon us but when the Tony was taken we knew we had won the day.

At 6.30 pm we rode over to the base of the Tony and enquired how many wounded there were for me and found to my relief only three Fusiliers and two officers - Bowden Smith and Nicolas. My cases at the dressing station at Palla had all been Sepoys Natives. I got these men back to camp at 8pm and my night and day was over. How there were so few Casualties I cannot imagine. The next day was a day off except for the C officers few wounded. I only had one small operation - removing a bullet from the back of the neck of Bowden Smith.

The day after I went with the force to see Donytsee bring brings me up to date. This afternoon I received your mail letters from you enclosing Bs from Amy and from No.19 - Grandma. I hope you received the Tibetan scrolls safely - they were all taken from the Monastery of Tsechen which was three days after arriving here. You must patch them up and clean them. Everything is dirty up here. Give any away that you don't want. Have several other things - loot of the sorts - which I will send along when I have time to pack them up. Amy's account of my loot and interview with the "curator" was very amusing. Tell her know - up here - he is a Barts man - he is now back at Kalamatzo back there from here.

Whilst I was away at Donytsee, several Fusiliers were blown up by gunpowder at the Tony and I have now 8 badly burnt in the hospital so I am very busy. Very tired must go to bed - as I have a busy day in hospital tomorrow and have much to arrange if we are off to Lhassa. Much love. Am quite fit though everyone here has a cold and sore throat from the wet ground.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil.

Gyantsee 01-07-1904

2009-07-08T17:32:00.003+01:00

My dear Delia

I last wrote to you from Khanma. I sent off those photos which I hope have arrived safely. We had a great fight at Haini Monastery before getting into Gyantsee. This place the night before fired upon our Mounted Infantry, killing one man - so we had already determined to destroy the place.

We started storming the place with the mountain guns at 9am and though the enemy had a very poor time of it they held out bravely and had to be turned out of their houses by the infantry going from house to house and shooting all they saw. This was very difficult because directly anyone entered, a Tibetan or several Tibetans rushed at one from behind a door or some dark corner and slashed at your with a huge sword. Here Major Lyle, 23rd Pioneers was badly cut over the head - and his left hand - like Mr Candler - almost cut off.

About 4pm the fight was over and we continued our march to Gyantsee where we arrived at 7pm - utterly done up - 12 hours on the march and fighting half the time. As we approached Gyantsee the Fort began to seriously fire up on us but the range was too great and we had no casualties. Carsten and Bennet of the Battery met us and took us in to the Mission enclosure for some food. It was very nice meeting all these fellows again. We encamped out of range of the fort so we had a quiet night.

Next morning I had to operate on Major Lye and the regimental Doctor gave me assistance. We had to take off one finger - but patched up the rest of the hand in an endeavour to save it but I doubt whether we shall succeed as all the bones - tendons and muscles were cut through and the hand was only kept on by a flap of skin of the palm. These sword cuts are dreadful - they cut through everything and as the Officer leads the men they get the first slash and thus fall in to my hands.

The day afterwards - in pouring rain - June 28 your birthday - we went out and stormed several villages over in the West side of the "Tung" as we intended to move our camp here and try to cut off the "Tony" from their water supply. We were fighting all day long, ending up at 7pm with the capture of a large Village and Monastery to the north of the Fort.

This was a splendid fight as the village was situated high up and one could see the effect of the guns beautifully - the shrapnel shells bursting over the towers small "forts" and the enemy dashing about in all directions. The place was finally taken by the 40th Pathans and Gurkhas who climbed the hill on either side. Captain Craster - 40th Pathans was killed - shot dead - in the village and three other officers wounded slightly.

We got back to our new camp at 9pm again raining in torrents. Another long day for us. The next day we had a rest and began to collect fodder and grain from the villages we had taken. Yesterday we had an armistice for 24 hours as the enemy sent in a messenger from the fort under a white flag. This truce continues until 12 noon today after which we don't know whether it will be peace or war.

It is nice and warm here but inclined to very heavy showers. We have not yet attacked Gyantsee Fort - when we do we are sure to have severe casualties. I yesterday went out with an escort to look at the places we had taken and managed to get a few trifles. I think you will like the Tibetan painted scrolls - I have removed the lower roller to make them lighter for the post. If you care to - you can easily sow in another roller or cut the ends off square and hang them up without. These scrolls are very curious and should be very valuable at home - as they must be very old. No time to write more - I hope you can find some use for the "loot" that you have already received. Much love to you All Your Affectionate Brother Cecile Mainprise .

Send some of the photos to Number 19.

Kanyma, two marches from Gyantsee 23-06-1904

2009-07-08T17:20:00.003+01:00

My dear Delia,

Arrived here last night and we are all waiting here for one day as a "flying column" was sent out at dawn this morning to drive the enemy from the position they are said to occupy 30 miles from here but not on our direct road, The halt is very acceptable and we are all having a good rest and repairing damages generally.

This is my birthday so I informed the Mess Secretary who in my honour had sausages for breakfast, a great luxury as we have had nothing but mutton that has walked all the way with us and on arrival in camp has been promptly killed for our dinner and taken cold for breakfast - oh the toughness of it, our teeth ache for hours afterwards. There have been no vegetables for weeks so mutton and bread have formed our usual dinner. However the march up has been better than the last advance as it has been warmer though the troops who have just arrived here say Tibet is indeed a desolate country and they have seen quite enough of it already.

I have dropped 24 sick men out of the Fusiliers and the Battery - on the way up already - at the different posts. We are a fairly strong force and I don't think we shall have much difficulty getting in to Gyantsee the day after tomorrow. I have been very fit on the march though for the first few days we had nothing but rain every day. My new pony carries me well and is a good bargain at Rupees 150 only.

This post - Kanyma - was attacked about a fortnight ago by the Tibetans who killed one Sepoy and wounded 5 others. We inflicted 150 casualties upon them, there are two of the wounded enemy here in hospital, one shot in six places but doing wonderfully well.

I have got some nice views taken by Captain Moore - transportation officer - on our last advance here. I will try and send them off today, also the copy of the William's will which I was very glad to see. I received some letters from Bertie yesterday - I will enclose his own - he has been very lucky with his shooting. I can't help thinking today of my trip up the river two years ago with you Tim, Miss Bull - what a grand day we had. Give my love to Miss Bull! O I wonder when I am to enjoy any comfort again - even a good meal would be a treat - how I should like to be able to spend a few sovereigns in the Piccadilly.

I find my beard protects my face a lot against the wind. Some of the new arrivals can hardly see out of their eyes and their face is so swollen and cracked. We old Tibetans tell them that now it is mid summer and what would they have thought if they had been here in the middle of winter. We have now a Padre attached to the force and this morning at 8 am he held Communion Service which I attended. I regret to say that only two others besides myself celebrated communion - one the General's ADC, Captain Bignold and a half caste Clerk. As it has been announced in orders - I think certainly more should have attended. The Padre, Reverend C Cole has come from Darjeeling and lives with the Gunners and myself - Bennnet who gives me any photos has been at Gyantsee - as you know - and he has got a lot for me so when I arrive I will send them off. I was very glad to make use of your raisins and chocolates on the way up. I still have some of the meat lozenges which I am keeping for an emergency, Much love Dear Delia.

Don't worry about me. I don't know - nor does the General even - what we shall find when we get to Gyantsee as it all depends on the enemy in the fort.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

PS For the last five marches - my hospital has carried the General in a dandy as his stomach has been out of order and he has had much vomiting - but now he is better again - and a rather ignominious march for him, isn't it.

Tibet, 16-06-1904

2009-07-08T17:18:00.001+01:00

My dear Delia,

We have arrived here safely and proceed tomorrow morning on the road for Gyantsee. We do not expect any opposition until Gyantsee. I shall probably get your mail letters tomorrow or perhaps this evening. We are already leaving here several of the new reinforcements, sick as we had rain nearly the whole way from Chumbi.

Much love your Affectionate Brother,

Cecil.

Chumbi Valley 09-06-1904

2009-07-08T17:12:00.003+01:00

My dear Delia

We have at last received our orders and I start with the first Column from here on Sunday the 12th inst. We are altogether a fairly large force, a Wing of the Royal Fusiliers, a Native Mountain Mountain Battery 2 sections of the British M Battery, 4 Companies of the 40th Pathans, 2 companies 32nd Pioneers, two section Northern Field Hospital, Ammunition Column ready.

I don't know when I will be able to write again but will take up some postcards so that I can scribble a line occasionally. I received your long letter yesterday, also one from the Olivers. Strange to say I have a cousin of Bertie's friend Tillard in the hospital with pleurisy - Captain Tillard of the Sta Corp - who used to be Station Staff Officer at Hainital but here is in charge of a Yak Corps. I think he will have to be invalided to India.

I am glad you were able to after Arthur and Ada so well. I see Amy had not arrived on her visit yet so my £2 will come in useful for her ticket from Plymouth. This morning I sold my pony which I have used so far - to the Mounted Infantry, and for the money bought a much looking animal which I think will do me even better on the advance.

The account I wrote for the RAMC Journal has had to go up to the Headquarters for sanction for publication and I don't know when I shall get it back again. I think I have everything ready for the Advance. I am to mess with the Battery again - but in case I am stranded I have a fair quantity of stores myself. I have kept your savoury lozenges and chocolate - and they also will come in useful. Your socks and handkerchiefs have been excellent - a great addition to my wardrobe. I am now very well supplied with clothes and cannot very well take a chill - though from a Sick Convoy that came in this afternoon, I heard that it is still very cold and windy above.

Pincher is very fit and coming along too. I think if I get him safely back from Lhassa - I must try and get him home as the only British dog who has been to Lhassa. I am delighted to hear that the youngsters are so well. I hope you manage to arrange your trip to Clifton Villa with Miss Wood - she certainly did us very well indeed. Well dear Delia, much love, don't worry about me, when you receive this I shall be the other side of Gyantsee about 30 miles from Lhassa. I hope - if there is not much fighting at G - I think the enemy will give up the Fort directly they hear such a large force is approaching.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

Chumbi Valley, Sunday 8-05-1904

2009-05-11T19:32:00.003+01:00

My dear Delia

We have been very excited to hear the news from Gyantsee during the last two days. First the night attack on the Mission whilst all the troops except 200 Pioneers were away reconnoitring, in which 200 Tibetans were again killed and our casualties - two men killed - and this morning we heard of the fight of Colonel Branden's Column - his was the column away from Gyantsee at the time of the night attack - with the death of poor Captain Bath, our first officer killed.

We have very little definite news here - only a note from the General to the Regiment, the 32nd Pioneers, 12/1ed 14 mules carrying this two months Parcel Post - so the poor garrison at G have no luxuries of any kind. I told you the Battery had gone from here to G last Sunday and now we are waiting for the Royal Fusiliers and the rest of the Battery and other Reinforcements to arrive before we advance - about June 12th so the General here says.

I am having a nice slack time of it here - I find the new Mess run by the 32nd Pioneers here very comfortable and very good feeding - we even indulge occasionally in a Whisky and glass of Port so I can't complain, can I. However on the advance, messing is precarious and everyone has to look after themselves so this morning I ordered up from the stores in Calcutta about R50/- worth of stores as Emergency Rations unless I find myself messing alone. One never knows - I thought my hospital would have kept with the Battery and yet there it was ordered off at a moment's notice and the Hospital left behind to bring up the rest of the European troops. This time I am to take up the whole of my Hospital which will be much nicer. Another Section of a British Field Hospital has been ordered up but we are to go on again and the other hospital takes our place here.

I heard from Bertie 3 days ago - but only a line saying he had no luck and including a letter from you - not the copy about Willie. I will send off by return a cheque for £5 for your birthday present. Many Many Happy returns of the day. I hope you will have a very Happy birthday and mind you get a nice present for yourself and you and Tim have a "bust up" somewhere - a Theatre or a Dinner at the "Carlton" or elsewhere. This is not for the household expenses - have noted what you have spent of dear Mothers money and won't forget it. Much love dear Delia I am very fit and well.

Your affectionate brother Cecil.

PS: I am sending three very poor photos taken by a novice; I will send good ones from Gyantsee later.

Chumbi Valley Monday 2-05-1904

2009-05-11T19:29:00.001+01:00

My dear Delia

We have arrived back here once more and I can scarcely tell you how grand it is to be stationary and in a warmer clime. The continual "pitching tents" and "starting" days, every day for days together is no joke - especially under the conditions we have been experiencing. I think I wrote to you from Tuna on Sunday last and I hope you will receive it by the mail leaving last Saturday. A couple of days ago I packed up a box of loot I procured on the advance to Gyantsee. Some I picked up myself and some I bought from the native troops who had fewer qualms of despoiling the dead than I had. The larger objects - such as guns and sword - I will have to bring home myself, I think - as even the carriage of the small box cost 10/ 6d. I have labelled everything so that you may see what they are. The earrings I bought for RS 15/- but I expect the pearl is worth this - excluding the turquoise stone. You might send something to No19 as a memento from me. I am glad you were so pleased with the photos. I will send a few more this week. I've received all your letters safely but of course very late, as we had practically no post on the way to Gyantsee. There is no definite plans as to how long we remain here before our next advance the government has not sanctioned our advance to Lhassa yet. We have heard that we shall remain about a month however. You must tell my correspondents - like Miss Bull and May Stevenson, etc - that it has been impossible to answer their letters yet but I hope to very shortly. The Curios I have sent are mostly of little value as the Tibetans are so poor that they don't own anything worth more than a few rupees - however as they came from Tibet this itself renders them unique. Will you enquire from Holt whether they have received any dividends from my shares lately - as except for one paper for £5 sent to me for my signature, I have heard nothing from them - and I am wondering if you must produce my shares on my behalf - in other words apply for the bonus or interest personally - before the different companies send the half yearly bonuses. Also is my Insurance Premium paid. How much balance have I in their hands. If you are anywhere near Whitehall I wish you would look in and interview them. Much love dear Delia, I hope the Youngsters are flourishing. I am very fit and well though I regret to say that I had to send down my servant to India as the advance to Gyantsee absolutely broke him up.

Your affectionate brother Cecile.

PS: The £5 14/- 6d was from the French Exploration Co.

Salu, 3 days march from Gyantsee 17-04-1904

2009-04-20T16:10:00.005+01:00

My dear Delia,

I wrote to you and Beatrice two days after the fight of Guru and yesterday I also wrote a long letter to Bertie to be forwarded to you. Directly I had written it and sent it off, I received a letter from him saying he was going to Kashmir on the 11th so I am afraid this will delay my letter reaching you.

We are now ten days march from Chumbi and three days from Gyantsee. Yesterday our Mounted Infantry went to reconnoitre a village - were fired upon but no casualties incurred. We returned the Tibetan fire killing four and wounding five so we heard this morning. We expected some fighting today but the Tibetans have fled at our approach and are now said to be waiting for us 15 miles away. So we may expect some resistance the day after tomorrow.

The marching is very trying. Rising in the chilly morning at 6 am - marching 12-16 miles with transport which requires continual urging on - and then after arrival in camp having to pitch tents and make oneself comfortable. Again food is somewhat scarce and the lack of wood for fire does add to ones discomfort. However we take it all as a matter of course. No one grumbles.

I hope we don't get much more fighting as the Tibetans have absolutely no chance against us and we - the doctors - have all the trouble of looking after their wounded. In Bertie's letter I told him how both my patients, the press correspondent whose hand I amputated - and Major Dunlop - were progressing exceedingly well. I am thinking of "billing" the Daily Mail for £50 for looking after their Correspondent.

The country is now quite level between the hills and it seems as if we were marching along a huge water bed some 3-4 miles broad. We march in four columns and though I don't know our exact numbers we look a tremendous imposing force due to the number of followers, some 9,000, and innumerable mules and yaks as transportation. Though of fighting men I don't think we number more than 1,000 at the greatest estimates.

I am so sorry your nice parcel of luxuries - socks etc - has not reached me. I expect now I shall not get it until we return to Tuna - when I don't know. Several other parcels on the road I have also missed. Letters I have got quite safely - there is not sufficient transport to allow for parcel post. I hope you got my letters written yesterday to Bertie - 3 sheets - as it brings all news up to date -also the one describing the fight at Guru. However you will see all the news in the papers and I have kept up my diary.

Many thanks for all your mail letters which I have received safely - also the newspapers, the last about Barts Hospital and Mr Lowcey's death. I will not comment upon your letters as it only fills space and is not interesting to you. I received Daisy Bull's second letter - please tell her much love dear Delia.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil Mainprise.

Gyantsee, Monday 11-04-1904

2009-04-20T16:08:00.001+01:00

My dear Delia,

Just a line as I hear a post comes in and goes out by Mounted Infantry early tomorrow morning. We only arrived here this evening at 5pm. Yesterday we had a very long day as the Tibetans opposed our advances from a high hill commanding a very narrow gorge through which we had to advance. It took some hours to dislodge them and I am sorry to say in the process they lost another 200 killed beside several hundred captured - our casualties were very slight. They were to have opposed us the day before on the 9th at a huge wall they had erected across a Valley but they fled during the night. We arrived here this evening (frozen) without opposition and we find that nearly everyone has fled from the town. There is a fort here held by a few men which we hope tomorrow morning they will hand this over to us without fighting. For the last 4 days we have been marching from 8am until about 6pm about so we are all rather tired. after our nine days march from Tuna and 15 days from Chumbi. There is a great chance I think of us going on to Lhassa as there is no one here of importance with whom the Mission can treat. It is warmer here a little but rather a desolate spot - not so nice as we had expected. Goodnight - too tired to write more - I am fit and well. Much love to all.

Your affectionate brother , Cecil.

Kalajumigi, 2 days march from Guari 6-04-1904

2009-04-06T14:31:00.003+01:00

My dear Bertie

Another freezing afternoon and the wind and the dust blowing a regular gale. It is hard to keep ones tent standing. I last wrote to you from Tuna two days after the fight at Guari. On Monday last we left Tuna and are now five days march or 12 miles from Gyantsee. The first day we marched to Guari and had a look at the villages we had stormed, Though we had been burying Tibetans for three days there were still several lying about the place. We had already brought about 150 wounded in to Camp Tuna besides about 300 captives. Both of the villages were entirely deserted and there were any amount of loot in the way of rifles, swords ammunition pouches, every variety of garments, and bags and bags of gunpowder to be picked up. I have sent a few things down to Chumbi which I hope to pick up on my return - a good rifle, sword spear, ammunition, pouches and some smaller things.

We left Guari yesterday morning and had a 13-mile march to Chalu - a few stone huts in a barren plain - where we arrived at 3pm in a snowstorm. The march was along the side of a huge lake swarming with geese and ducks but we were not allowed to shoot on the line of march. After we got in a few geese were shot but the lake was frozen for some yards from the edge and was so huge that it was very difficult to retrieve the birds. We had a dreadful night as the wind kept up all night and this morning we found the ground covered with snow. I was up at 6am and breakfasted with the 7th Mounted Battery with whom I am messing at 6.30 am. The Hospital was packed up at 7.30 am and we marched at 8 am for this place - a short march, only 8 miles. There is another lake here swarming with birds. And there are only very few shotguns here. I have only a rifle - not much good.

There are about 1000 Tibetans, 16 miles from here - who say they are going to stand - but I doubt it - at all events this time we will not go up to them like we did at Guari. If they had only fired straight and low we should have lost very heavily indeed. Another regrettable incident!! I left the Daily Mail correspondent Candler doing very well after my amputation of his hand and treatment of his other serious wound. Major Wallace Dunlop - 23rd Pioneers - was also doing well. My Hospital was quite the centre of attention at Tuna after the fight as the other Hospitals only had the native wounded. Even the General and Colonel Younghusband had to come to me first before they could see the patients!!

It is absolutely impossible to keep clean here - at night one sleeps in ones clothes except for coat and boots and even then it is bitterly cold. My beard is now of ten days growth and - and Monkey Brand is not in it with me. My nose also has been sadly smitten by the wind and most of the skin is peeling off.

I haven't heard from you in some time. Letters are now brought up by Mounted Infantry from Tuna so send me a line. I received Julia's mail letters safely. I hope you have sent on those photos to her. When you send this on to her give her my love and say I am fit and sound - tell her I receive her papers safely. One writes under such discomfort even if one has time to write, which indeed one has not - if it is a long march - that I cannot do more than write to you and you send them on. It is an extraordinary sight - the miles and miles of hills and valleys - and not a vestige of anything growing. The lack of wood and often water except from a long distance does not add to ones discomfort as fires are out of the questions except for cooking purposes and then often composed of dung. My pony is carrying me well and I don't know how he does so well as his rations are often precarious. We have met only a few inhabitants in the various villages that we have passed through - most have fled - though if they remain they are absolutely safe as no one is allowed to be injured unless they fire on us.

When do you take your leave and for how long. How are Bunter and Kitty. Well so long old chap. Don't send any more cigarettes as the parcel post can't reach us here. I have several parcels now somewhere on the road including Delia's parcel containing some luxuries and your China socks.

Your affectionate brother,

C Wilmot Mainprise.

Tuna 2-04-1904

2009-04-06T14:18:00.002+01:00

My dear Bertie,

We arrived here on Tuesday last and it is the dirtiest, windiest, dustiest, coldest place we have struck so far. I have started a beard and let everything slip. It is impossible to keep clean.

The day after we arrived we had all to strike tents early in the morning to make the enemy believe that we had gone back to Phari - all day up here without a tent is no joke. The next morning at 8.30 am we started out to attempt to drive the enemy from Guan where about 2,000 were strongly encamped. Guan is distant about 7 miles from here. When we got about four miles on the way, some envoys rode out and told us we could not proceed any further.

Our reply was again to advance and with our Infantry and Mounted Infantry to scale the heights and eventually surround their outpost camp about 1,000 men. Not a shot had been fired as we were not allowed to fire until they did. We now saw all the Tibetans surrounded by our men close to their Camp consisting of a few huts and tents and a long stone wall. The order was now given to the Pioneers to fix bayonets and disarm the Tibetans who were wearing every variety of garment and sword.

This was too much for the Tibetans - they got angry and began to throw stones and their General shot a Sepoy in the throat. This first shot was enough - in a moment everything was Confusion. We - the Hospitals had all come up - and were close to the General and the staff - Mission Staff -and everyone started firing - horses and mules began to bolt and run back a short way - and I heard someone shout out "lie down" - So I lay down and had a look around. The Tibetans were now retiring along their road, fired upon on all sides by our men. I saw the Battery being brought in to action also the Maxims - and so went and stood behind the Battery - where the General and some of the staff had also gone, and watched their shells bursting over the road -along which the Tibetans were walking. We afterwards found all of the dead hung round with charms which they imagined rendered them "bullet-proof" hence their walking and disregard of our fire. The whole road soon began to be filled with dead and dying and eventually the Tibetans disappeared around the hill from view and the order was then given to cease-fire.

I then began to think about our wounded - which I knew were practically very few. In the first confusion of the attack by the Tibetans a Major of the 23rd Pioneers was slashed in the hand by a sword and two fingers practically cut off - Mr Candler the Daily Mail correspondent had been nearly killed by a Tibetan with a sword (these belonged to me) and about 12 Sepoys had been wounded, These were looked after and sent back to Camp.

Now the looting began. I found my Tibetans Doolie bearers had run off and were looting the Tents, and houses and corpses - and it took me about an hour before I could collect my Hospital and proceed along the bloodstained road - strewn with 150 bodies - and endeavour to catch up the main body which had proceeded to Guari - distance two miles from this outpost. Passing the wounded I quite expected to be shot at or hacked with a sword but nothing happened. The whole road was strewn with weapons so I picked up a huge lance - like the Lancers carry - and made along with this. It created a tremendous sensation amongst the wounded who "salaamed" and put up their hands for mercy, quite expecting to be run through with the lance.

We - the hospital doctors and a few stragglers - eventually picked up the main body before Guari and found firing again going on. The Tibetans held two villages here and were firing at us nobly. However they were soon shelled out of these, about 300 being taken prisoner and the rest escaping over the hills. We had a few more casualties here and the Tibetans about 150. After a long delay two companies of Pioneers and some Mounted Infantry were left to garrison these Villages - Guru - and we began our march home again. The prisoners were told off under escort and two Doctors to look after their wounded and bring them in here if they could. The site going home was not edifying - but we eventually got home at about 7pm. No food since 8am!!!

Now I had to look after Major Dunlop and Mr Candler -no one of the Battery or Maxim Gun Detachment had been hurt - and by the time I had something to eat and got to bed I was dog-tired. Next morning about 8 doctors went out under escort to treat the Tibetan wounded but I had my time occupied with Major Dunlop and the Daily Mail correspondent. I got an MS man to give me a hand and I amputated the two wounded fingers of the Major's. Candler's injuries were much more serious. We had to amputate his left hand at the wrist - we patched up his right hand as well as we could and it may be saved. He had a bad gash over the temporal down to the bone - his left leg badly gashed and one of the bones nearly cut through - besides other severe injuries. All of these injuries took a long time and he was nearly 2 1/2 hours under Chloroform. I am glad to say that both my patients this morning are doing very well indeed. If my Daily Mail patient does well - it ought to be a good advertisement for me, eh!!

No more - I am nearly frozen - as a snowstorm is just starting. I am very fit and well. We move on to Gyantsee on Monday - two days march. I received Delia's mail today - give her my love and tell her to copy this letter before sending it round as otherwise it wont be readable. It was written in a great hurry as I am very busy.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil.

Phari Fort 26-03-1904

2009-03-26T17:36:00.005Z

My dear Delia,

Just a line, We left Chumbi on the 24th and though the night before we left we had a snowstorm since them we have had splendid weather. The three-day march has been accomplished very quickly though in the early mornings it was bitterly cold and the ice in the paths made the riding sometimes very dangerous. However "Ping-tang" the pony carried me along very well and I have not been overtaken by any mountain sickness which generally seizes first coming in to Phari as we are 3,000 foot higher than Chumbi Valley.

We arrived yesterday about 1pm and I had a good lunch with the Battery who arrived before the hospital. In the afternoon all Officers commanding Units had to go and see the General - to learn what they had to do and what Transport would be allotted them. He has given my hospital three more mules so I shall travel more comfortably now. This morning at 9.30 am the General held a review of the whole advancing party - and put us through certain movements in case of attack at night. We of course the hospital are in the Centre and our place is between the Battery and the Guns under Lieutenant Luke RA - we are just behind the General and the Staff and in front of the Native Field Hospital so that if we are attacked and the General falls he will be popped in to our hospital before he can say "knife".

The order "form Square" was given and I gave the order to unload our Medicine Panniers from the mules - and we got everything ready to treat Wounded. On the "advance being given we all loaded up and went on again. I told the OC Battery to send me a man to cut up - but unfortunately he forgot all about it. We receive our final orders this afternoon and we start for Tuna tomorrow morning. We shall wait at Tuna for a few days and then start straight for Gyantsee and it is after Tuna we expect fighting as the Tibetans have assembled at Guru 16 miles from Tuna. Goodbye no time to write more as I have a lot of work to do, hoping you are all well.

Your affectionate brother C Wilmot Mainprise.

Editors Note: Photograph The Tibet Album. "Phari Dzong" 05 Dec. 2006. The British Museum. Accessed 26 Mar. 2009 . For more information about photographic usage or to order prints, please visit the The British Museum.

Tibet 20-3-1904

2009-03-19T15:42:00.007Z

My dear Delia,

In my letter to Bertie which he will forward by the same mail as this - I talk of our advance tomorrow to Gyantsee but unfortunately this advance has again been postponed. Rumour has it that some Chinese "Amban" is shortly arriving at Tuna to treat with the Mission there. But this probably all "rot" and if he does arrive nothing will come of it except delay to our advance.

I am so sorry you received no letters from us last mail but I think the fault lies with B as I seem to be always writing letters. Your sweater has arrived and am delighted with it, "it is just the very thing I wanted". Do you remember our Christmas presents? Talking apart I am so glad to have it and very many thanks - dear Delia - for sending it.

You talk also of socks, handkerchiefs - be arriving and these also will be much appreciated - as these are luxuries indeed up here. You say March 20th as the probable date of arrival so I can begin to look out for them now. Don't worry about my letters - send them to anyone you please - only you had better send someone along to read them to the various people!!! I wrote to the Cousins a few weeks ago - so I expect you will hear of this from them. Bertie is sending along by this mail several amateur photos given to me - I hope you will like them. They are all I have got so please keep them carefully - Send them down to No 19. Please tell dear Daisy Bull I received her letter safely but she mustn't expect a letter from me until next mail.

This is for her.

With much love to all

Your affectionate brother

Cecil

Editor's note: Photograph of man and woman travelling on horseback in the Chumbi Valley is believed to have been taken by Sir Charles Bell between 1904-1922. For more historic photos of Tibet visit the The Tibet Album.

Chumbi Valley, Sunday 7-03-1904

2009-03-19T15:17:00.003Z

My Dear Delia,

I think I must write direct to you this week as my letters to you via Bertie seem to be somewhat irregular. Last mail I had as well as your letters, letters from Amy and Daisy who were so delighted with my letter describing my journey from Runypo to this place.

In connection with this trip we were all here very shocked to hear yesterday that a Mr Bragg, Director of Indian Post Offices who had come on a trip from Simla to inspect Post Office arrangements arrived at Gnatong and after waiting there for some two days during which he only complained of being unable to sleep at night, proceeded on to the next march, Kapaap - the place from which I wrote one of my letters just before the Talap Pass. Here he was taken much worse and Captain Bliss who was accompanying him said he had better go back to Gnatong. A "Doolie" was procured and he was taken back but died on the way. Poor fellow, dreadful to die all-alone like that. Captain Bliss his companion arrived here yesterday - I suppose the exertion and rarefied air was too much for his heart.

This week I have managed to get you some photos and eventually hope to get you some more. The ones of our camp were taken by Mr Bennat RA of the Battery I am in medical charge of. He gave me the negatives and I had 3 or 4 dozen printed off at Calcutta as most of my staff required a couple of copies, The views of the Snow Capped mountains are taken at Phari. One has to cross the mountain to reach Tuna where the mission with a small escort is now encamped and has been so for the last two months. I have been promised several more views and they are now on their way to me from Calcutta. You will notice am clothed in my sheep skin coat and look very furry, The other men have coats as well but I have mine open and thus the fur shows more.

You were asking what my assistant surgeons are. They are generally Eurasians who have taken Indian university degrees - and are of the so-called Indian Subordinate Medical Depot. I have one Eurasian and one Englishman and also an Eurasian attached to the Battery under my direction.

For the last few days we have had a lot more snow and rain and it has been very uncomfortable. The General sent for me on Friday to ask what transport I would require for the advance about the 24th. We are to travel very light and he has had me down for 15 mules to 25, so I will have to leave a lot of hospital equipment behind. A mule carries 80lbs only on each side. One of my assistants with most of the tents will have to be left here. We march straight through to Gyantsee - about 12 days’ march.

I was delighted to get your letters last week and enclosing Mrs Carey's and Alick and also the photos of the youngsters. I think it splendid both of them so fit and happy. I wrote to Laura and congratulated her and also wrote to the Cousins Bessie and Alda.

I must really close - I am getting your papers regularly - many thanks for the sweater, I am longing to see it. It will be the very thing I want. Socks will also be acceptable as I find after every hard march, my heels are absolutely devoid of socks from coming down hills on ones heels - luckily I don't blister. My knee is not troubling me at all though of course I have to take care.

Much love dear Delia your affectionate brother Cecil

PS: A nice letter from Lady Hapwood last week.

Chumbi Tibet. 19-02-1904

2009-02-17T19:24:00.007Z

My dear Bertie

Thanks for the letter received yesterday and also for the cigarettes that arrived this morning. I am delighted to have them as the ones I got from the stores - "an Egyptian blend" I do not care for very much. Yours are beauties - I remember from a Tin you sent me over before. Yours are Capstans.

We are very quiet here, the General and Staff have returned from Tuna where they thought there might be some fighting but nothing happened. For the last three days we have had snow but not enough to worry one - though we have had to beat it off our tents to prevent them coming down. My house has become very leaky as it not asdfasd and rainproof. Still it is not very cold and when it is snowing the wind ceases to blow, which is a great blessing.

I am including a cutting from one of the papers, which you might read and afterwards send on to Delia. The Calcutta papers, "The Englishmen" and "The Statesmen" both of whose correspondents are here both give very good accounts of expedition and if you see anything interesting in the "Pioneer" you might cut them out and send them to Delia. I see plenty of papers but as they don't belong to me I cannot mutilate them.

Every night I make up a Bridge party and everyone is delighted to come and play a few rubbers as my house is very warm and comfortable and time passes rapidly until bedtime. We had just finished last night when one of my sergeants rushed in to say that a Tibetan Dooly* bearer was lying outside with his throat cut. I found the man lying in the snow unconscious and bleeding from several cuts in his neck . However when I had taken him in to the surgery and examined him I found that the wounds were not very deep and I think he will recover.

Our troubles here are well shown in this case it was that it was so late (11.30pm) that I had no warm water and I had to use frozen water - and carbolic acid was also frozen and when I had only washed the wound for a few minutes my own hands were so frozen I could feel nothing. However I took the man in to my hut and kept him before the fire all night. The next morning handed him over to the NF Hospital. He had been attacked by one of my own Tibetans (they were all drunk, being their New Year's Day - Feb 18) but at the Court of Enquiry yesterday at which I was a witness, practically no evidence could be extracted from other Tibetans as to how it happened.

I was very pleased to hear about the ponies. I expect you want a stronger bit for Kitty and her head kept lower. She used to be so handy that Hoare at Fatahynah offered me R500/- for her to play in the Polo Tournament at Hainital where there is a very small ground and afterwards to sell her to me again for R400/- - my original price. Of course I would not take it as he rode R1000/- - R1200/- ponies himself - being a heavyweight - and what was R100/- to me with the chance of Kitty being damaged. On his side it would have been a tremendous bargain, as he knew Kitty had often played there and knew the ground.

I received my mail letters from Delia this morning - she is greatly worried over her Servants - the nurse has gone sick and the housemaid wants a holiday!!! Poor Delia. The servant question here is no mean difficulty. Most of the servants after coming a few marches - ran away - and I don't blame them - it is hardly worth dying of pneumonia or losing most of your Toes or Fingers from frostbite for the sake of any extra R5/- 10/ per mensam. My Servant does me well except on a few occasions when to cheer himself up he drinks a bottle of native liquor and is incapable for 24 hours. Still I don't worry him as his joys are very few and far between up here.

My boss is still away and I am running the show. The Madras Sappers have not improved yet but I don't think the General likes to send them down as they have certainly done good work. Sheppard arrived here from Guntak yesterday to see the General and today the General goes with him to Guntak on Inspection Duty. We are all here very interested in the Russo Japanese war but our news is somewhat late. How well the Japs are doing the Russians will have no time to give to us!! Well so long - much love, send this on to Delia.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

PS: I have had some photos taken of the Hospital Camp and also a group of the personnel. I have sent the films down to Calcutta to be developed. They are very good and when they arrive I will send them along.

Editor’ Note: Doolie* is a kind of litter suspended from men's shoulders, for carrying persons or things; a palanquin.

Near Chumbi, Tibet 11-2-1904

2009-02-11T17:44:00.001Z

My Dear Bertie

I haven't written for some little time but there has been nothing to record. We are supposed to be wintering here and one day is very much like another. I have been out several times with gun or rifle after sport but there is practically nothing to shoot here just a few "Chinnals" or pheasants have been shot and a goat of blood partridges. I have been practising with my revolver and with my Winchester rifle and now manage to make some fair scores.

I also occasionally take out my pony for a gallop - he has turned out quite a good bargain. I was very pleased to hear "Banters" and "Kitty" are playing polo regularly again. I can't understand that foreleg of Kitty's - unless she injured it in the train - with your lightweight she ought not to go lame. I am awfully fond of both of those ponies; especially Banters who has always done me tip top. I think with his saddle and bridle on, Bantams is one of the prettiest of ponies.

I am at present PMO to the force here - as Colonel Waddell is away in Calcutta - so I have been rather busy as I have to keep an eye on the medical arrangements all along the lines of Communications. I am not really senior after Waddell but as I am senior here with the General I take precedence over the other medical officers who are not here.

I think it is getting warmer here - at all events one does not feel the cold so much now. I am quite comfortable now and as fit as I have ever been in my life. We are very excited about the outbreak of hostilities between Japan and Russia though we have seen no papers yet. We however get Reuters telegrams from the General so know most of the important news and wonder how it will affect this show, it will certainly make it easier as both the Chinese and the Tibetans have been hoping they will be backed up by the Russians. However I expect when we move on beyond Tuna where the Mission with an escort of 4 legs of Pioneers now are and have been for the last three weeks - there will be fighting as the Tibetans are said to be throwing up barriers.

At Tuna it is simply a dog's life - the cold, diet and general discomfort is so bad - no wood being obtainable for fires that I believe all of our people would not mind throwing up the Chance of a Medal and going home. A dusty wind is always blowing and most of the men have lost their voices from this irritation to their throat.

By the bye, the Madras Sappers and Miners who had been in the Teesta Valley since June last and are now here with us - have become very seedy indeed - a very high percentage of Sick amongst the men. This is due to the fever contracted by nearly all of them during the rainy season last year. I have had to point this out to General and I should not be surprised if they all had to come down to India. They all are played out. Their officers, Heycock, Garsten-Lewis - are very sick about it and of course are trying to get their men out of Hospital as soon as possible but I don't think it will be any good. I wonder if your company will come up in their stead, You must keep this to yourself as this is of course an Official Secret and the General would not probably like it known.

We have managed to get up "Bridge" in my shanty every night and the Battery generally come over for a game - this is a great improvement and passes the evening well. I have been very hard up for cigarettes but at last have received a couple of Tins from the stores - I have tried Commissariat Rum occasionally but cannot stomach it at all. However one never requires alcohol much.

I have received good letters and papers from Delia every week, who appears to be going on all right. I wonder how the war will affect Tim - I'm afraid badly except in the way of people "selling". I suppose our little lot of investments will suffer too. Did I tell you Tim kindly bought for me £250 Anglo French Exploration Company Shares. It sounds an awful gamble but I remember you told me that Tim strongly advocated them. I am awfully glad Watson's failure did not affect either of us. Thomas was in the Watsons - I expect he will be very sad although I think he had nothing but a current account. Well so long and take care of yourself.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

PS: I heard from No 19 that you had been very "proud" to them this Christmas, lavishing money right and left. I am delighted to hear you thought of Mrs Harnbey and An Collard - You are much better at these things than I am.

Chumbi Tibet, 6-02-1904

2009-02-05T08:08:00.007Z

My dear Delia,

I am hoping you will receive a letter from Bertie sent by me by this mail but should you not receive one I am writing a few line to say I am quite fit and quite well and nothing of importance has occurred here. The PMO Colonel Waddell CIEIMS* has gone inspecting on the lines of Communication and I am at present officiating for him with the General so I am rather more busy. I think it is getting warmer, at all events one is getting more accustomed to it.

The papers apparently are taking great interest in the expedition - We have the Daily Mail, Reuters and Times correspondents with us but they are apparently not allowed to write much. I have written a long letter to No 19 by this mail - so probably they will send it on to you. Much love to you and the youngsters hoping you are all well.

Your Affectionate Brother Cecil Mainprise.

* Editor’s Note: Laurence Austine Waddell (1854 - 1938) was a British explorer, collector in Tibet, and author. He was considered one of the foremost experts on the country and was the cultural consultant on Sir Francis Younghusband’s 1903-1904 invasion of Tibet. He documents the people and religion of the Tibetan capital, including British-Tibetan military clashes and peace negotiations in his book Lhasa and its Mysteries-With a Record of the British Tibetan Expedition of 1903-1904.

Chumbi Valley, 24-1-1903

2009-01-25T14:07:00.003Z

My dear Bertie,

I admit I have been rather slack lately in writing but there has been very little to record. General MacDonald and Staff arrived here from Phari on the 19th and with them came Colonel Waddall Tibbs - the PMO. On the following morning the General and his Staff inspected this hospital and were very pleased with the appearance of our Camp.

We are rather higher here than the rest of the camp being situated on a raised piece of ground - the front of this I had made in to a kind of terrace and this was levelled with three flights of steps cut into it and leading in to Camp - gives our camping ground a most imposing appearance. On the front of the Terrace is our Flag Post with flag flying. The Camping Ground itself was beautifully level not a stone to be picked up anywhere - all Tents pitched most accurately and in a line - a stable built for my pony - also my assistant surgeons - and lastly our living house beautifully warm and sunny.

All this impressed the General and PMO very much. They said though I had arrived last our Camping Ground and arrangements were best in Camp I made my formal call on him during the afternoon and he - General MacDonald - was very pleased - though a very quiet man. I hear he was out in China at Tiantsin on "railways" but he never mentioned you - do you remember him? I will enclose you a list of the staff here and Heads of units. When read please forward to Delia, also the "baby pictures". Delia talks of her babies - so I am sure she will be interested in mine.

Many thanks for the Cake and potted meats which arrived safely yesterday. The Cake I started on yesterday and much enjoyed. The Battery 7th MB -3 Officers - are dining with me tonight and I intend to do them "proud". I have an excellent cook and I believe that I fare better than most judging of the meals I have taken outside, Certainly the luncheon I had at the Battery yesterday my cook would never look at. Everything very "Kutcha" and dirty - their servants had run away and their native driver was cooking for them!!!

It is very cloudy and dark today and looks very much like snow. The General and Staff have hired a native house about ¼ mile from here and are already ensconced - awaiting Snow! Since I have been here all my "pals" have been exceptionally good in writing and sending papers. I had a letter from Miss Bull by the last mail I think I must really send it on - also from Lady Hapwood - Mrs Thomarsson - Ralph - and by this morning's mail letters from Grandma - Daisy and Delia.

Thanks for offering to send me anything more but you must not really trouble. I have sent a R/-100 to the Calcutta stores and if I want anything can send for it myself though of course an unexpected present like your last is much more exciting to receive. Yesterday I sent for 5lbs of bacon and 3lbs of Cheese, Chocolate and Cigarettes - as I have nothing to smoke without sponging on my friends. Your Company - Sappers & Miners are still at Guntak though the Madras Sappers have come on. I hope your fellows come on shortly as I want to meet them. I hear from Rumour - the West Ridings and another Native Regiment are coming up in March as there is certain to be fighting when we leave Tuna - where the Mission at present are. Must really close - a splendid long letter from Delia this morning.

Yours

Cecil

Chumbi 15-1-1904

2009-01-15T09:22:00.004Z

My dear Bertie,

I received your letter this morning and I was glad to hear that you had had such a splendid Christmas. There is a Drake Brackman in this show. I expect it must be a brother of your friend. My last letter I wrote direct to Delia as I wanted it to catch the mail. I continued from Kapaap from which place I despatched my last letter to you and which you tell me you forwarded on. Except for the cold and the hard going over huge boulders very slippery from the ice, the Talap Pass presented no difficulties and we arrived here on the 7th, finding the General and the Mission had gone of to Phari, twenty miles from here. There has been no fighting except that one officer of the Gurkhas 4th had a brickbat thrown at him when at Phari which knocked him silly for a time during which his rifle and ammunition were run off with. It has been kept very quiet and I don't know the full particulars. He had some Sepoys with him but they had been given instruction not to fire so the fellow, a Lama, got away all right.

Half the troops are here and half at Phari but I understand that we are all shortly moving up to Phari where about 2000 Tibetan are expected to be threatening about. It is intensely cold here but my Tibetan Doolie bearers have built me a house of stones where I have a fire all day long and I hence am fairly comfortable at night. I crawl in to heaps of bedding sown together to form a "bag" which is the only way to keep warm. Stores are now off and I have come down to the Tummy's ration of bread, meat, potatoes, sugar, Tea, etc. Luckily I have an 'A' cook who makes these things into a splendid dinner. At present I am messing in the hospital as the tents are so small and everyone is moving about daily so much so that everyone makes their own arrangements for messing and there is no general mess. However when I do dine out I find that I get a much finer dinner at home.

I have very few sick so I am not overworking. I tried my hand at my rifle yesterday and hit a handkerchief rolled in to a knot at one hundred yards twice following - my only shots - so I think it is fairly accurate. I then had a turn with my revolver where I went all round a tin - could not hit it for "nuts" so before I fire at a Tibetan I shall run up to him and fire. I am actually keeping a diary so I shall be able to write a book on my return.

I went to see the only English woman in Tibet, a missionary at Yatang. She has been here since 96 -although the Indian Government have tried hard to turn her out. She keeps a "store" otherwise the Tibetans themselves would turn her out. I bought some stores and she gave me the most delicious lunch ending up with some Mince Pies so I did very well. Her name is Miss Anna Taylor and her Sister describes in the Illustrated London News Supplement of December 5th 1903, a visit to her and this part of the World. There is also a lot about her and Tibet in the Guardian, which number I do not know (this information for Delia).

My dog Pincher is doing wonderfully well and I do hope he will live. I have never seen him fitter with an appetite like a wolf. I received Delia's mail letter yesterday, written on Christmas day. I'm afraid my money for toys for the Children arrived too late. Still it would do for New Year's day. Everyone seems to have been exceptionally kind to the youngsters who had any amount of toys. Goodbye, I am very fit and actually managed to have a bath today at 12 o'clock when the sun was up.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil

PS: The two Sappers here are Capt. Elliott CRE and Garstin - Sappers & Miners (Madras) - but don't think they have met you. Cecil.

Chumbi Valley, 11-01-1903

2009-01-10T16:46:00.003Z

My Dear Delia,

Here we are at the headquarters of the Mission after some of the coldest and harshest marches it is possible to conceive. I hope Bertie has sent on to you my letter written at Kupapp just before we were about to cross the pass. Except for the bitterness of the wind and rarification of air, which causes some people an intense headache - with nausea and sickness - there was nothing remarkable about the Pass. No snow had fallen and everything was very easy. I was able to ride up but on the other side there is practically no road and one had to scramble down for about 6 miles as best as one could.

That evening I found only about half of my warm socks left in my boots. Two marches after leaving the Pass we arrived here and found orders to remain here until the Headquarters Staff returned from a flying Column Expedition in a few days time when we shall pick up our Battery. It is all nonsense saying the Valley here is warm and sunny and well cultivated. It is very bleak and barren, a nasty cold dusty wind blows all day and it freezes all day long. Even in the sun during the day it is freezing and consequently one is always wrapped up. At night I only take off my coat and boots and sleep in my clothes and a warm cap and gloves. It is the only way to keep fairly warm.

We passed through some Tibetan villages after the Pass but all the houses look incomplete - no doors or windows - and as if they were being pulled down. Except for their Chinese characters there was nothing remarkable about them. I understand that we are all shortly to leave this Camp and go on to a Camp in the Valley about miles from here. Here the General proposes to winter - what he intends to do when the snow comes I can't imagine as Tents won't stand snow but collapse unless one goes out every hour and removes snow off the flaps.

One doesn't care to smoke or drink here but everyone eats heartily one's rations from the Commissariat, - Meat Tea Bread Sugar Potatoes, Rice - brought up some stores but they are rapidly disappearing.

I don't think there is much prospect of fighting although yesterday we heard At Phari Tong - one of the 8th Gurkha officers had been struck on the head with a stone and his rifle and ammunition seized.

I am very fit indeed but shall thoroughly enjoy Civilisation again as all of us say. My dog Pincher has suffered in the cold and I think now will be all right. He sleeps with me and doesn't go out expect when the sun is up.

I received your mail letter safely in and you had already heard of my setting off. And Daisy was with you and also wrote to me 8th-12-03. I have been so sorry to hear of Tim's eyes and really think he ought to see an oculist as they have been bad for so long now. Has he tried Yellow Oxide of Mercury Ointment - "Golden Ointment" this is a splendid remedy for most eyes after washing with Boracic lotion. Very many thanks for the photo of yourself and the Children. I think it is capital of you all and the Children look "very pretty" and sweet.

My hands are so "cracked" and "sprayed" I cant write any more - please thank Laura - May Stevenson, Mrs Stevenson, Ralph - No 19 for their Christmas letters - when I can, I will answer them but there is only about two hours in the day when one can write and then I have my office work.

Much love Dear Delia

Yours affectionately Brother Cecil

Talap Pass 5-1-1904

2009-01-05T09:25:00.000Z

My Dear Bertie,

We got away from Runypo on Jan 1st and arrived yesterday at Gnatong after one of the stiffest climbs I have ever had. The last two marches were terrific and old campaigners were all unanimous in saying that this expedition takes the cake. Yesterday on arriving at Gnatong , Colonel Kerr and the 8th Gurkhas were good enough to give me a good Tea and afterwards dinner so I had luck in this respect though I had to sleep in a Tent with a fine icy blast blowing all round as the Dake bungalow such as it is, was full. However by taking off my coats and boots and putting on fur slippers I went to bed as I was having put on the bed everything that I possess including a native lambs wool rug weighing 12lbs. With this I felt warm but the air is so rare that it is rather hard to breath and no one cares to smoke. Bathing and washing is a luxury, it is too dangerous one might catch pneumonia. Feeding is rather a difficulty as "rations" are not generally available and stores at exhorbitant prices have to be used.

We left Gnatong this morning and we have encamped with the Pass before us - in as barren and windy a spot as can be imagined - everything frozen including ourselves. However with fur caps and Pashteen Coats we manage all right.

The Hospital is travelling alone though up to Gnatong -3 other officers accompanied us in camp. At this camp there is Thornton who is running the Kashmir Pony Corps. He remembers you at Peshawr and was out in China. He says China was cold but most people were not under Canvass and the Clubbing and rations were excellent while here the latter are by no means good. I am dining with him tonight but must take over to his tent, plates knives etc!

Tomorrow we cross the pass after which it will be warmer. After tomorrow we still have two more marches to reach headquarters in the Chumbi. I hear however our Battery is 5 days march from the Chumbi so whether we shall go in at once I don't know. I am as fit as a fiddle but find my knee requires "nursing" over the rough ground as it occasionally "gives" but as long as I don't slip over anything I can march miles in fact I marched almost the whole way up although I have a pony it is too bad a road to ride. Of course I keep my knee very "dark" - no one knows about it. However as I am always allowed to ride it doesn't matter much. Several of the establishment have been knocked up by the severe marching but I enjoy it except for the ends of the march - rough feeding and chilly tents.

Send this on to Delia and give her my best love. I shall not be able to send her a letter this week as there are no post offices before the Chumbi. Good luck old fellow, I hope you are going strong. It is too cold to write more.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

Runypo, Monday 30-12-04

2008-12-30T19:24:00.002Z

My dear Bertie,

A happy New Year to you and very many of them. Yesterday a word came from Headquarters saying that the British Field Hospital was urgently required in the Chumbi, and as mules were arriving here tomorrow we are to start the day after tomorrow - New Years Day - so this will be the last letter from Runypo.

I sent off your revolver some days ago now so I hope you have received it all right. I forgot to tell you I am keeping the leather wallet for cartridges as I forgot to bring mine. I hope you have not been on at the Post Office for losing it.

I had on the whole a very fair Christmas day. There were four of us making merry at the Dake Bungalow and afterwards we ended up at the Sergeants' Mess where we sang songs around the Campfire. I had a splendid Day on the 25th and 26th -letters, cards, almanacs and books from Delia, Tim, Grandma, Daisy, Amy Lilly, Laura, Mrs Casey, Mrs Stephenson, Lady Hapwood, and letters from pals out here. I don't think I have ever done so well. Did you hear from Mrs Young of Fatakyark? I expect so. I received your letters - one on Christmas day and one that had wandered up to the Chumbi two days ago.

I am glad to hear that you have gone away for Christmas and I hope that you have had a good time. I have only seen Captain Sheppard of the 3rd Company of Sappers & Miners as they had all gone on to Guntak before I arrived here. I will look out for Haswell and the other fellows that you mention.

We shall be days getting to the Chumbi Valley, four days to Gnatong and on from there. I see they have twenty degrees of frost - though I am exceptionally fit and taking 12-15 mile walks every day to get fit and relieve your so-called corporation. It is not at all cold here yet. Much warmer than this time at home. Thanks for your offer to send me papers but up to now I have managed to see a paper nearly every day.

Yours

Cecil

Runypo 21.12.1903

2008-12-21T18:40:00.002Z

My Dear Delia,

Well I can't say this reminds me very much of Christmas. Here we are in Camp alone, only another Officer - the Transport Officer - and myself sharing the responsibility of this large Command. Captain Bliss of the 3rd Pioneers is the Transport Officer and he and I know that the last of Gurkhas - they left this morning for Guntak not for the front - have left the Station - we are going to mess together in the Dake Bungalow.

An amusing incident occurred this afternoon. Two coolies passing through the camp, carrying a Turkey, Christmas cake and other good Christmas delicacies up to the Chumbi Valley for Major Beckhampton one of the staff up there. The Coolies are going to pass the night here in Camp with some of my men and already the Turkey is grazing about the camp. I shall not be at all surprised to hear it had disappeared during the night!!! I have 4 hungry Topias attached to my hospital who have very slack ideas as to the rights of ownership.

I am not at all certain where my Christmas day will be spent as there are rumours of mules arriving here on the 23rd. If so we may be able to start for Chumbi on the 24th. If so my two assistants and myself will spend Christmas day on the march - but we shall certainly supply ourselves with the best Christmas cheer we can find at the local store here.

I can imagine what a jolly Christmas week this is in town - all the shops so gay and bright and so much going on. I should so much like to go shopping in the evening and see everyone about so smart and jolly. I dearly love Christmas time in London - out here one misses everything of Christmas as there are no shops, no crowds of people, no entertainments going on.

However one thing that I have in front of me at this very moment - is a huge campfire nearly ½ Ton of logs composing it which has just been collected and lighted by my Tibetan dandy man. In fact it is so large that I am keeping a good look that no sparks fly on to Tents or the Hospital Stores which are packed not very distant away.

I hope you will receive those Christmas cards safely. I did not send you one as they were very scarce and I had written to you a long letter. I received your mail letter safely again this week, in it you thanked me for the cheque which I am glad had arrived all right. I suppose at the end of this month I ought to be receiving some dividends from my shares. Directly I hear this I will send you a cheque as a New Year's present. At present I have only about £20 at the Holts and there is my Insurance and Annual Subscription coming due so I don't like to spend any more on this.

I think I ought to be able to save in this "show" but at present living is very expensive and my Outfit has cost a lot of money. I am sending Tim a letter for Anglo French Exploration Co. which will ask him to send on as I don't know the address having brought no papers or documents of any kind with me. I have not had a letter from Bertie since I started. I heard however about him from a Captain Sheppard R9/- who had just come from Raoakee he said he was well - but very busy on a Barrack Project which he had to do for a Forunation so I suppose it is alright.

I shall think of you all on Christmas Day and if I can get any Port, drink your health. Much love to you all - Tim, the kiddies and all the girls.

Your Affectionate Brother Cecil.

PS I wonder when I shall see a dear girl again.

Route of the 1903-4 British Invasion of Tibet

2008-12-19T20:22:00.004Z

Editor's note: Patrick French wrote an account of Younghusband's life called Younghusband: The Last Great Imperial Adventurer. Its a great read and we say thank you to Patrick for the use of this map from the book. If you double click on the image it will enlarge and then you will be able to see it properly

Cecil Mainprise's Original Bound Letters

2008-12-16T19:38:00.002Z

Editor's note: This book of letters remained unread in my father's book case for many years. I dont think anyone had read them because they were so difficult to decipher and perhaps also because no-one quite realised what an exciting escapade Uncle Cecil had been involved in and what a charismatic and remarkable character Younghusband was. I decided to have a go at reading them after my father died. I would spend evenings reading the letters and dictating what I had learnt into a cassette recorder. This process continued over a period of months. It helped that I had a period of jury service when I could press on. It was a wonderful experience. As if time had doubled back on itself and Cecil was even then on his way to Lahssa. It was a tough journey but in those days they tended to just get on with things. And of course writing to Delia he would not have wanted to worry her.

Runypo, 9-12-03

2008-12-16T17:04:00.004Z

My Dear Bertie,

Here we are safe and sound and waiting transport to take us up to Gnatong. My Bhutara pony turned out quite a good buy and brought me along in fine style. Mules were so urgently required to carry grain further on that our 75 were commandeered here and we have to wait here for more.

From Confidential orders I see McDonald and Younghusband advance from Gnatong into Chumbi tomorrow - in full battle Array and I think they may meet some resistance. We shall be out of this first advance but I hope we shall soon pick them up. It is not very cold here and am thoroughly enjoying what has been a 'picnic' up to now. I unfortunately lost my first box of stores on the Railway - no fault of mine as it was amongst the hospital equipment but have managed to procure some more.

I found Baird Yims up here remembered you at Siahkole and in China. He is in charge of one of the sections of the Native Field Hospitals. We are all taking a tremendous amount of warm kit, Poshteens, Gilgit, Boots, Goggles - how we shall carry it I don't know. I hope your Revolver has returned to you all right. The Postmaster at Calcutta wrote to me and said he was making enquiries about it. It is magnificent Hill scenery here and I am getting my pony in to fine condition by morning rides.

I received Delia's mail letter safely yesterday and she seems to be very fit and flourishing. I shall be glad to hear how you are - Except a short note and dressing gown, I haven't heard from you for ages. Runypo is a very small place, only a few bunniah shops and large Commissariat Quarter. Dacuns we are encamped about ¾ of a mile up a hill and so it is not very exciting. Luckily some of the 8th Ghurkha rifles are here and I chum with them. So long, hoping that you are all well.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil.

Lipo Tuesday 16-12-1903

2008-12-16T17:04:00.003Z

My Dear Delia,

I hope you received my last letter from here safely. We have been here for the last ten days and only yesterday received a telegram from headquarters in the Chumbi Valley ordering me to join the battery at Chumbi equipped with clothing. I at once wired back to say that we were fully equipped but could get no Transport as yet as all the mules had already been taken up to the Front however the transport officer here seems to think that he will soon be able to get transport and send us on. I should think that we will spend Christmas day at Chumbi with any luck.

Since writing to you last nothing of importance has occurred and every day has been much like another. I have been getting fit by going on marches everyday with the 8th Ghurkha. The officers are all very nice fellows and with whom I mess. The advance in to the Chumbi Valley from Gnatong which started on the 11th has apparently as yet been unopposed so I do not know why at last they have hurriedly sent for the Field Hospital. The Native Field Hospital here also has orders to move on to Gnatong.

I have not heard from Bertie for weeks though I have written several times to him. Letters addressed to the Field Hospital must reach me in time. I have received all your mail letters. I hope you will have had a happy Christmas by the time this reaches you. You got something for Sheilagh and for the Godchild out of the £1 I sent you last mail. How is the Stock Exchange now, is business any better there? I do hope it is and that you are not so anxious as you were. It must be very disappointing to be willing and keen for work and yet find none to do. Please remember me to Tim and wish him all the best of good luck in the New Year. I expect this show will be rather a long one and that I shall be lucky if I get home next year even - the last Sikkim show lasted 16 months. Much love dear Delia and the Brightest of New Years.

You Affectionate Brother

Cecil Mainprise.

Runypo (4 days march from the end of the Railway) 6-12-03

2008-12-16T16:43:00.001Z

My Dear Delia

We had a most enjoyable march from Silingore, the place I wrote you from last week. I went most of the way on my Bhutara pony and I find him a most excellent purchase. We did not do more than 15 miles a day as our mule team cannot manage more than this. Our men were carrying heavy Dandias or litters for carrying Sick or Wounded men which are no joke to carry for more than a few miles.

I was disgusted to find after the first days march that my box of stores, tinned and potted meats, biscuits, jam etc, had been lost on the railway between Calcutta and Silingore - about £4 worth!!! I had put the box amongst the hospital equipment as I was only allowed a certain amount of baggage and hence I could only keep an eye on it. However I was determined not to be outdone and at the first place I could bought some more. I may get it again but I doubt it as there is such a large amount of traffic at the moment on the railway.

It is lovely scenery all-round like going through Bickleigh Vale - only the hills are much higher and beautifully wooded - the snow can be seen in the distance on the hills. At present it is not very cold except at night when we have a huge campfire and sit round and 'buck'. There is a detachment of the 8th Gurkhas marching with us and I generally have my meals with the two officers accompanying them - Captain Ward and Lt. Grant - I am afraid we shall remain here some days as on arrival our mules were taken away in order to carry grain at once further where it is urgently needed, and there is not such great hurry for us to go forward. I do not mind, as it is very pleasant here and not so cold as further on.

Thirty Tibetan Hillmen have just come in to camp who are joining my hospital to carry Dandias. I have been roaring with laughter at them as they are very Chinese looking and dressed in practically anything they can pick up. Three were wearing ladies straw bonnets of sorts with turbans taking place of the strings. Looked exactly like a finely made woman wearing a kind of bodice with no sleeves but straps across the shoulders. I told the Sergeant who brought them in that we couldn't really have any women!!! They get a splendid cold weather equipment from government and have just gone down to store to draw it - so by tomorrow they will be alright.

We get a tremendous appetite here and as we have to feed ourselves - mostly on stores - which are double our ‘xccx’ living works up to rather a high figure. The Dake bungalows charge 8/- per day for food alone. I have bought two servants with me, a bearer and a ‘Syer’, and think their warm clothes will cost me R30-40 rupees (shillings) each as even the lowest of public followers are getting this from government and our servants rightly expect to have the same amount of clothing.

Colonel Younghusband passes through here on his way up today and I am going to dine at the Dake Bungalows tonight in order to have a look at him and hear if possible what he has to say about the show. There is also Captain O'Connor Intelligence Officer to the Mission - also here. He has written one of the best books on Tibet there is - he is a Garrison Gunner.

I was delighted to receive your letter yesterday forwarded by my agents King & Co. To hear you speak of Laura and Dilder Daisy Bull - and other "girls" of "mine old days" - made me think - how little lately I have had of any of these luxuries. I haven't been really in love with a girl - since the Marshall episode in Plymouth years ago. I was badly smitten then. I don't suppose I shall see a girl now for many months. I am beginning to think I shall die an old bachelor in spite of all your prophecies. I ran in to an old Barts man; Captain Baird who is in the Native Field Hospital, which was mobilised some time ago. This hospital is complete - this is to say 4 Sections not 1 Section like mine.

You see except for a Main Battery and Mountain Battery all the Troops as yet engaged are Native Troops. This Native Field Hospital has 5 Doctors to it - all of whom except Baird have gone on. He is to remain in the line of Communication. I cannot - thank goodness do this uninteresting work - as I must be with the British Troops.

My little dog Pincher trotted along nobly with us and is fitter than I have seen him for a long time. At night I have to take him in under the blankets as otherwise poor little dog I am afraid he would not last very long. He is a great pet amongst the men and gets very spoilt.

I have just remembered that this will reach you about Christmas day so I must wish you a very happy Christmas and you must try and forget for a short time the associations of last Christmas. I am certain Dear Mother would not have you spend a miserable day thinking of her and wishing her back when she is so happy above. I will send a cheque for £1 to you for a few Christmas toys for the kiddies. Also give my Godchild a little birthday present on her first birthday. I must really close now. Hoping that you will all have a very Happy Christmas.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil Mainprise.

You must tell all my friends, relations, any people you think proper that I have thought of them all this Christmas but the exigencies of the Service do not permit me writing to them.

Siliguri, near Darjeeling, 1-12-03

2008-12-08T17:48:00.001Z

My dear Delia,

Unless I write today I am afraid you will not hear from me this mail. As you see by the above I have left Calcutta and have already started on the expedition - Tibetan-Sikkim mission, so called. I had an interview with the General - Genera Leach R9 Dist Presidency - on Friday and when he heard my hospital was mobilised he ordered me to start on Sunday, which we did by the 4pm train arriving here - the end of the Railway. Yesterday at 10am.

Today I have been getting transport and tomorrow morning early we pack up and proceed on our first march of 4 miles. The rest of the troops are four days march away at a place called Rangpo. I will now describe my team, 1 Medical Officer (MYSELF), 2 Assistant Surgeons, 1 Commissariat Sergeant, 1 Pack Store Sergeant, 14 Army Hospital Corp men to look after the Sick, 32 Cahars; men to carry covered stretchers or Dandias, 2 British Nursing Orderlies from the KOSBs, trained sick Orderlies, 25 Mule Drivers, 7 mules to carry sick and baggage.

Not a large force but very workmanlike. For this we carry 15 large Tents. The scheme seems to be that we proceed to a place called Gnatong where we shall probably pass the winter and advance through Tibet directly the passes are open. Of course if the Mission taken up by Colonel Younghusband is threatened before this, we shall probably have to advance before the Winter end and get on the best way we can by cutting roads though the passes. This morning I bought a hill pony called a Bhutara for R150/- 5 (£10) - I hope it will turn out a success. Of course, all that one wants is a hardy animal able to rough it and carry one instead of walking.

By the bye - please thank Grandmama for her letter thanking me for sending her my annual subscription. I have not time to answer it. I also despatching to her just before having leaving Calcutta a Rampur shawl which Amy asked me to get for her. You remember Grandma's present shawl - this is to replace that one which is worn out. I think it is a very nice one a pretty slate-coloured one - which I bargained from R30/- down to R15/- (£1).

I have been getting your letters fairly regularly which I think is wonderful considering the way I have been moved about lately. I never told you I met "Toby Welch KOSB" at Dura Kas. One day he had just arrived from Darjeeling. He didn't know me at all but remembered you. I then told him I knew his Mother and Sister very well at home where I had often met him too. This shut him up at once. He was rather inclined to put on "side" O. If he had said much more I would have described his Mother and "spotty" Sister, which as we were a Club with several men around - would not have pleased him. He has been rather spoilt I fancy - I also told him that he leant you and me one shilling in the Park one day - when we arrived there with no money to pay for chairs. Do you remember this I hope it was Welch?

Silingor is quite quiet though it is the base for operations at Sikkim - only a wing of the 44th Gurkha Rifles are here and ourselves. We have our meals together at the Railway Station Refreshment Rooms as this is the Station where people going to Darjeeling dine before Calcutta (18 hours distance). Well, I must really close as I must get off for dinner and go to bed early and be ready for starting on my Butara pony tomorrow. I have got crowds of warm things - so I am pxxx I shall keep warm if I can get my coat on over all. Much love to all - Remember me to Tim whom I hope is flourishing and give a kiss to the Youngsters from me.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil.

Camp Silligore, Darjeeling, 30.11.1903

2008-12-08T17:37:00.001Z

My Dear Bertie,

As you see by the above, we have started. On Friday I received an urgent order from General Leach, Commanding Presidency Division to go and see him. He asked me if the hospital was mobilised and when I say "yes" and ready to start, he told me to start on Sunday and so here I arrived early this morning and shall probably be going on again on Wednesday, as my transport won't be ready by tomorrow.

I am trying to buy a good pony here a Buhtara pony is the best I hear. I bought saddlery for it in Calcutta as there was scarcely time to send mine from Rioaka. I have got a Pardibery saddle from a man who served out in South Africa with plenty of Ds on it to carry loot if we can pick up any. My baggage has increased from 80 lbs. to about 300 lbs. but expect I shall be able to take it on - there is about a pound of English stores in it.

One had heard a lot about Silligore being used as a base to mobilise but when I arrived here there was only a wing of the 44th Ghurkhas remaining, all the rest had gone on to Runypo. I believe there had been a scare, of all events we were to have remained here until the 15th PRXX but suddenly all the troops got orders to move and I believe that the objective is Gnatong - to draw off some 14,000 Tibetans who have been prowling around Khumbajong where the Mission is. The Guns from Tutagh and Maxim Battery left here five days ago - so as I am to go with them I must buck up and catch them up somewhere probably at Runypo (Rangpo).

Tuesday 1st December

I have just bought a Bhutara pony for R150/- a rough but probably very useful animal. I raced him against another before buying and he went very well. We start tomorrow at 7am as my 75 mules have arrived today. Your revolver had not turned up before leaving Calcutta so I wrote yesterday to the Manager General Post Office Calcutta to redirect the parcel back to you when it arrives. I remembered those things that you asked me to get at Calcutta but directly after you wrote you went up to Simla so I thought you would be able to get them yourself.

I had a nice letter from Grandmama thanking me for the £10 a few days ago. I sent her a Rainfora shawl, which Amy asked me to get for her. I think it is a good one as I paid 16/- for it. It is not very cold yet but I believe three marches away it is extremely cold. I am taking Pincher - my dog with me - You remember I told you, he is very like your Stuffy - most aggressive to everyone but his master.

I hope you are flourishing at ‘Rasakee’, tell me how the ponies are going next time you write, I was sorry to hear that Kitty had gone lame. I am very fit and hope to have a good time away. It will be a great change for me, as I have never had a time like this. At Barrackpore I was having a lot of work as Colonel Barratt went on leave and left me to run the show. Civil surgery and everything. Well so long and best of luck. You might send this on to Delia when read.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil W Mainprise.

2nd Rajput Mess, Alipore Calcutta, 26.11.1903

2008-12-08T17:36:00.001Z

My Dear Delia,

As you see I am still here and am expecting to start any day. The Hospital is now mobilised and I expect we shall start on Saturday 28th. Yesterday the General was enquiring whether we were ready so there is no doubt we are going up. I am glad we have had so much time as even today I have been buying little odds and ends, which I had forgotten and yet will be of the utmost service to me.

I heard from Bertie on Tuesday last a very short note and I can't think what makes him so busy. I heard from Grandma by this last mail and she thanked me very much for the £10 I sent her. I have spent a small fortune buying warm things, as of course I had practically none. You would not believe how expensive everything it is out here - 10/- for a vest (13/ 6) and everything else in proportion. I shall have lots of time to write letters I expect when we start as after getting a certain way I believe to Lhasa or whatever it is - we shall camp I believe for some weeks.

Much love Dear Delia

I have still crowds of things to do yet.

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil Mainprise

2nd Rajput Mess, Alipore Calcutta 18.11.1903

2008-12-08T17:33:00.001Z

My dear Bertie

I was wondering what had happened to you and eventually began to think that you had also gone off to Sikkim. Many thanks for the revolver - but as I could hear nothing from you and we are expecting to start any day, I had to procure one on payment from the Arsenal - Mark II the new service revolver - so I think when yours arrives I had better readdress it back to you.

I have got all my kit together now and have spent a small fortune in thick garments. I saw those camel hair dressing gowns at Phil Laidlaw's shop yesterday evening and they are certainly very nice and warm but I think that my old dressing gown will do though it is very good of you to suggest giving me one. Going with a hospital I can easily manage to take more than my 80 lbs - in fact I am taking a lot of stores with the hospital equipment which I hope to smuggle along.

We are expecting receive orders any day. I saw some Sappers and Miners had gone from ‘Kaoakaa’ and I wondered if you would be able to go. I have been having a very nice time here and managed to get away to dine at the club occasionally and go to a theatre. The 2nd Rajput are also very nice fellows. I have pitched my Hospital in the Commissariat Timber Yard afar from the madding crowd and here I spend all the time.

My home letters arrive anyhow at present. I have been so moving about that everything seems all right there. I sent Delia £10 last mail and have also forwarded my annual donation to No. 19 (£10). I saw your name in the Whist Book of the 2nd Rajput the other evening - a loser. In China I am a winner in the same book of about 200 points so they won't get much out of the family. My address will be Officer XXX, Section D, Number 21 B7 Hospital, Sikkim. When I start I will write to you. So long.

Your Affectionate Brother, Cecil

2nd Rajput Mess, Alipore Calcutta 17.11.1903

2008-12-08T17:28:00.001Z

My dear Delia,

Here I am in Calcutta having received telegraphic instructions on Friday afternoon last (13th) to proceed immediately to Calcutta and mobilise and take command of No 21 British Field Hospital, which was to get ready for service in Sikkim. I packed up the same afternoon and a tremendous job it was too with all of my heavy kit and arrived here early next morning.

I found as usual there was no tremendous hurry as we shall not start from here probably before the end of the month, however one never knows and ever since arrival I have been busy getting tents, stores, and medical equipment for the hospital. I have hardly had time to think of my own clubbing and equipment I have almost got the hospital ready now and today pitched all of the tents and the stable - about 60 people altogether have all now nearly arrived.

I do not think there will be much medical work to do for some time as at this time of the year the passes to Tibet are impassable and we shall have to get as near as we can and then wait until we can advance. The PMO (Principal Medical Officer) tells me he especially selected me and thinks I ought to do very well. We are the only British hospital detailed as yet. I am the only medical officer but I have two assistant surgeons under me.

I am lucky enough to be living here with the Para regiment that I was living with at Barrackpore - this regiment also suddenly received orders to come in here but they are not going to Sikkim. I understand that it will be dreadfully cold and I shall want much the same equipment as Bertie had for China. I don't know how you had better address me: D 21 British Field Hospital Sikkim; I think will be the best. I hope that you are all well. Much love. I shall write whenever I can. But don't worry about me, as I am in the lap of luxury going with a hospital where I can obtain everything.

Your Affectionate Brother Cecil.

I shall probably write from here next week.