Bramakputea, Botra River Tibet 28-07-1904

My dear Delia,

Here we are within three marches of Lhassa. We arrived here three days ago and since then have been busy getting the troops across the river. We have not crossed yet but I have just learnt this afternoon from Colonel Waddell that I am to cross with my hospital tomorrow at 9am. We cross in two large barges captured from the Tibetans which are hauled across by ropes, dragged by our men on the other side of the river. The river is not more than 300 yards across but the current is very swift and strong. We were all much upset by the drowning of Major Bretherton, Chief Supply and Transport Officer, and the General's right hand man. He was a great friend of mine and always gave me anything extra I required for the Hospital. He was up here - Siliguer - some weeks before the Expedition started, arranging Commissariat for the Troops. That he of all men should die so untimely.

I am writing outside my Tent facing the river. Along the sandy road in front of me, troops of laden mules are passing to the ferry - these mules and "kits" are to cross the river this afternoon. It is like being encamped on the front of some watering place as there are about two miles of sand and hillocks which we occupy. The Battery crossed the river on the second day - so I for the last two days have been messing by myself. Luckily I have my reserve stores to fall back upon - you remember me ordering these from Calcutta the last time I was at Chumbi. The Commissariat here have run out of everything - you cannot even get a tin of butter or a pot of jam - no salt or sugar even. I expect that we shall all have crossed in another two days and then we shall start on our final three days march.

We are all very excited about seeing Lhassa but hope we shall not stop there for very long. If we could get back by October I ought to be off home by the first Transport - I think there is quite a fair chance of this. If I don't get leave at once I shall swear!! The Tibetans three months privilege leave I rather fear is only available in India. We have had better weather the last two day, nice and sunny though last night we had a sandstorm for a short time which rather blew our tents about. I hear a mail comes in this afternoon and hope there will be some letters for me. Whether it is an English one I cannot say. I received your last letter at asdgfasd . My diary which I have regularly kept up to say - but I think it was about 8 days ago (July 21st). I think I must have written to you after this but one gets so mixed up with the dates and days of the week.

I was glad to hear that you were all well at No 32. I sent off three parcels of "loot" of sorts so from Gyantsee which I hope will arrive in due course. I think you had better give most of it away to friends with my compliments - it is only valuable as coming from Tibet. That carved book cover is valuable and if cleaned and regilded should prove a handsome ornament. The scrolls want repairing as I had to remove the lower wooden shaft to make them lighter to go by post, All these were taken out of Monasteries - principally at Gyantsee - as also the Silk which I don't think is much good. I have recently got a few nicer things which I am carrying with me but will send off at the first opportunities. You mustn't scoff at the loot - there is nothing really valuable in Tibet. There is a strict order against looting now so I doubt whether we shall be able to get much more from Lhassa - however the Sepoys manage to pick up things and it is these that we buy from them - often at an absurd price, much more than they are worth.

I was delighted to get Amy's letter as well as yours. She is enjoying her stay with you immensely. Strange to say I was thinking of Plymouth the other day. I imagined myself starting off on Saturday for the market - and a glorious trip in my imagination. I was spending money like a Duke, buying peas, asparagus, flowers, white puddings, what ho! But when I do enjoy this trip once more how I shall miss dear Mother. You are right, one always especially associates Plymouth with our Dear Mother. Well dear Delia goodbye and love to yourself and the youngsters.

Remember me nicely to Tim

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

Brahmaputra River 25-07-1904

My dear Bertie,

Here we are already at the river where we arrived yesterday after having crossed the Khamba Pass, 15,500 feet in the morning. This morning we marched 6 miles along the river to the place from which the Tibetan ferry starts. Here we luckily found two larger barges of sorts which the Mounted Sappers had managed to capture the day before. These boats hold about 40 men each or 20 mules and on these the troops have already begun to cross. The "Buthan" boats have not proved a success today at all events as when crossing this afternoon, several successful trips, one of the boats began to fill with water and thus upset the raft built between the two boats with the consequence that Major Bretherton, Chief Supply and Transport Officer was drowned and two Gurkha Sepoys. We are all very much upset by the accident as Major Bretherton was almost the most important Officer of the Force and was sure of some reward for all his hard work after the expedition closed. One of the Mounted Infantry was also drowned this morning trying to swim his horse across and another M I only reached the bank after a severe struggle. What with three gunpowder explosions, one falling cliff, two drowning accidents - we have not been very lucky. It is strange to think that we are now only 30 miles to Lhassa and could easily ride there in one day. We shall probably take three days or more to get everyone across. Where the ferry is - the stream is only about 200 yards across - but it runs very swiftly and there are some bad "eddies" due to a huge rock projecting somewhat in to the stream at this point. I think all opposition is now over as the "Kam" people who have been doing most of the fighting for the Tibetans have now almost all returned to their country "fed up" at their want of success. The Mounted Infantry yesterday saw them all retreating along the other side of the river. We are to encamp two miles from the walls of Lhassa and shall have opportunities of visiting the place in small parties. I hope we don't stop there too long - the one wish in the force is to see Lhassa and get back to India as soon as possible. We have had any amount of rain lately which has not added to the pleasure of our marches. Thanks for your letter written from the Drake Brackman's house. I expect you are now back at Ruoakee. I hope my next letter will be addressed Lhassa, from the Metropole Hotel.

Well so long. I am very fit,

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil Mainprise.

PS: I don't think the Sappers and Miners under Sheppard and Walker were in any way responsible for poor Bretherton's death -the stream was too strong for such a frail container. The boats were too light in such strong "eddies" and "tides". We are now only using the captured boats. Don't forget the cigarettes, I have only about 50 left.

10/8.04 B. Yes. Some clumsy "landlubber" put his foot through the canvas)