6 miles for Lhassa, 02-08-1904

My dear Delia,

A post goes back tomorrow at 6 am. We crossed the river safely and after three days marching arrived here this afternoon. We arrive at Lhassa tomorrow morning.

This afternoon nearly all the Lhassa Council with the exception of the Dalai Lama came in to have an interview with Colonel Younghusband -both Tibetan and Chinese and the array of costumes and head-dresses was very funny! I don't think there will be any more opposition. I received your letter safely two days ago thanking me for my birthday present and also Tim's - please acknowledge. Am very fit - good night - had a long march today from 7.30 to 4pm.

Yours affectionately,

Cecil.

Bramakputea, Botra River Tibet 28-07-1904

My dear Delia,

Here we are within three marches of Lhassa. We arrived here three days ago and since then have been busy getting the troops across the river. We have not crossed yet but I have just learnt this afternoon from Colonel Waddell that I am to cross with my hospital tomorrow at 9am. We cross in two large barges captured from the Tibetans which are hauled across by ropes, dragged by our men on the other side of the river. The river is not more than 300 yards across but the current is very swift and strong. We were all much upset by the drowning of Major Bretherton, Chief Supply and Transport Officer, and the General's right hand man. He was a great friend of mine and always gave me anything extra I required for the Hospital. He was up here - Siliguer - some weeks before the Expedition started, arranging Commissariat for the Troops. That he of all men should die so untimely.

I am writing outside my Tent facing the river. Along the sandy road in front of me, troops of laden mules are passing to the ferry - these mules and "kits" are to cross the river this afternoon. It is like being encamped on the front of some watering place as there are about two miles of sand and hillocks which we occupy. The Battery crossed the river on the second day - so I for the last two days have been messing by myself. Luckily I have my reserve stores to fall back upon - you remember me ordering these from Calcutta the last time I was at Chumbi. The Commissariat here have run out of everything - you cannot even get a tin of butter or a pot of jam - no salt or sugar even. I expect that we shall all have crossed in another two days and then we shall start on our final three days march.

We are all very excited about seeing Lhassa but hope we shall not stop there for very long. If we could get back by October I ought to be off home by the first Transport - I think there is quite a fair chance of this. If I don't get leave at once I shall swear!! The Tibetans three months privilege leave I rather fear is only available in India. We have had better weather the last two day, nice and sunny though last night we had a sandstorm for a short time which rather blew our tents about. I hear a mail comes in this afternoon and hope there will be some letters for me. Whether it is an English one I cannot say. I received your last letter at asdgfasd . My diary which I have regularly kept up to say - but I think it was about 8 days ago (July 21st). I think I must have written to you after this but one gets so mixed up with the dates and days of the week.

I was glad to hear that you were all well at No 32. I sent off three parcels of "loot" of sorts so from Gyantsee which I hope will arrive in due course. I think you had better give most of it away to friends with my compliments - it is only valuable as coming from Tibet. That carved book cover is valuable and if cleaned and regilded should prove a handsome ornament. The scrolls want repairing as I had to remove the lower wooden shaft to make them lighter to go by post, All these were taken out of Monasteries - principally at Gyantsee - as also the Silk which I don't think is much good. I have recently got a few nicer things which I am carrying with me but will send off at the first opportunities. You mustn't scoff at the loot - there is nothing really valuable in Tibet. There is a strict order against looting now so I doubt whether we shall be able to get much more from Lhassa - however the Sepoys manage to pick up things and it is these that we buy from them - often at an absurd price, much more than they are worth.

I was delighted to get Amy's letter as well as yours. She is enjoying her stay with you immensely. Strange to say I was thinking of Plymouth the other day. I imagined myself starting off on Saturday for the market - and a glorious trip in my imagination. I was spending money like a Duke, buying peas, asparagus, flowers, white puddings, what ho! But when I do enjoy this trip once more how I shall miss dear Mother. You are right, one always especially associates Plymouth with our Dear Mother. Well dear Delia goodbye and love to yourself and the youngsters.

Remember me nicely to Tim

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil

Brahmaputra River 25-07-1904

My dear Bertie,

Here we are already at the river where we arrived yesterday after having crossed the Khamba Pass, 15,500 feet in the morning. This morning we marched 6 miles along the river to the place from which the Tibetan ferry starts. Here we luckily found two larger barges of sorts which the Mounted Sappers had managed to capture the day before. These boats hold about 40 men each or 20 mules and on these the troops have already begun to cross. The "Buthan" boats have not proved a success today at all events as when crossing this afternoon, several successful trips, one of the boats began to fill with water and thus upset the raft built between the two boats with the consequence that Major Bretherton, Chief Supply and Transport Officer was drowned and two Gurkha Sepoys. We are all very much upset by the accident as Major Bretherton was almost the most important Officer of the Force and was sure of some reward for all his hard work after the expedition closed. One of the Mounted Infantry was also drowned this morning trying to swim his horse across and another M I only reached the bank after a severe struggle. What with three gunpowder explosions, one falling cliff, two drowning accidents - we have not been very lucky. It is strange to think that we are now only 30 miles to Lhassa and could easily ride there in one day. We shall probably take three days or more to get everyone across. Where the ferry is - the stream is only about 200 yards across - but it runs very swiftly and there are some bad "eddies" due to a huge rock projecting somewhat in to the stream at this point. I think all opposition is now over as the "Kam" people who have been doing most of the fighting for the Tibetans have now almost all returned to their country "fed up" at their want of success. The Mounted Infantry yesterday saw them all retreating along the other side of the river. We are to encamp two miles from the walls of Lhassa and shall have opportunities of visiting the place in small parties. I hope we don't stop there too long - the one wish in the force is to see Lhassa and get back to India as soon as possible. We have had any amount of rain lately which has not added to the pleasure of our marches. Thanks for your letter written from the Drake Brackman's house. I expect you are now back at Ruoakee. I hope my next letter will be addressed Lhassa, from the Metropole Hotel.

Well so long. I am very fit,

Your Affectionate Brother

Cecil Mainprise.

PS: I don't think the Sappers and Miners under Sheppard and Walker were in any way responsible for poor Bretherton's death -the stream was too strong for such a frail container. The boats were too light in such strong "eddies" and "tides". We are now only using the captured boats. Don't forget the cigarettes, I have only about 50 left.

10/8.04 B. Yes. Some clumsy "landlubber" put his foot through the canvas)

Peter Jong near Lhasa, 7 marches from Gyantsee, 23-07-1904

My dear Delia,

Here we are now only three marches from the Sangpo River - how we are to cross this no one seems to exactly know. Since Karalo we have met with no more opposition and I really think the Tibetans are now tired of trying to oppose us. The last two days have been very wet and miserable. It is no fun arriving in camp in a perfect deluge of rain and having to pitch tents. The ground is so sopping wet that directly you unpack your bedding it gets wet also and covered with mud. Though it is the end of July, the hills all around are covered in snow and the wind blowing off them very chilly.

I received your mail letter and was very pleased to hear that you had celebrated my birthday so happily. I hope your own birthday was spent in as jovial fashion. I can quite imagine that Amy is a quite terrific guest to entertain as she would be delighted to give you assistance in the house where necessary and so thoroughly enjoys any show in town. When I hear of your little trips and of your nice pretty little dining room with the sun shining in of a morning, how I long to be home once more and have a little "easy", even a good breakfast of bacon and egg or some of that fine Light Dinner Ale from the shop at the corner of the road seems at present to be Elysium. There is no doubt "the stomach rules the man".

With the reinforcements that came up from India about 2 months ago, there came a Church of England padre who used to celebrate mass with us and the Battery. He was a fine looking, typical stout looking clergy and we all found him very nice. But poor fellow he got no further than Gyantsee. The hardships of the march and the plain food were too much for him. The day before we left - Gyantsee - he said to me. "For goodness sake - put me on the Sick List and leave me behind. I can't stand this life any more. I shall be eternally grateful to you if you do this for me." Well I did and he was left behind and we are now Padre-less. We often laugh over the Reverend Cola from Darjeeling who arrived so "chirpy" and keen to go up to Lhasa and in the end took the first opportunity to go back, all enthusiasm blighted by the hardship of the advance. His was a case of Stomach really. He was so afraid of starving that he filled himself up with anything that was before him with the results that he was always suffering from the qualms of indigestion. I knew he was ill and used to watch him eating with dismay - meat I was absolutely afraid to touch so hard and uncooked was it. He then told me the reason. We are now alongside a huge lake which extends for miles - Yamdok by name - and we have managed to catch some fish which are very acceptable as a change.

I was glad to hear about the Anglo French Exploration Company being all right - when they told me the shares had gone down 18/- per share, I had an idea they were only £1 shares to start with. The more to spend when I get home!!! There is some talk of the Mission only going on to Lhassa with a Small escort I hope this will not be the case. At all events I expect I shall go as they must make the escort principally European Troops and will require my Hospital. Well I must close as the post goes away by Mounted Infantry tomorrow morning. We march to Tamalung tomorrow, 12 miles. Much love, yours affectionately Cecil

Just now sent on 10/8/04

Karola 17-07-1904

My dear Delia,

We arrived here this afternoon and we hear that the Tibetans are up at the Pass to oppose us, to the number of 5000. We are now four days out from Gyantsee and well on our road to Lhassa. We have had a comfortable march so far although we have had one very wet day . I am fit and well and going strong. Our posts now are very uncertain but I will post this at the first opportunity. We are all wondering what sort of show we shall have tomorrow, of course the enemy may bolt tonight. I have received your mail safely and am glad that all things are going on well with you. I think you have forgotten to answer about the Anglo French Exploration Co. I expect they will "buck up" shortly. The General and Staff have just gone out to reconnoitre the position for tomorrow's action.

Very many thanks for your birthday present - also Amy's - they are both quite useful and I am delighted to have this knife and fork - blow this pan!!!

No time for more. Much love to all, your affectionate brother, Cecil

Karola, 4 marches from Gyantsee 19-07-1904

My dear Bertie,

I received your letter saying that you thought there was a probability of your coming up here. I should certainly bring up your pony if he is sure-footed, does not shy, and is fairly hardy. The General and staff have just gone out to locate the enemy where the Mounted Infantry report they are about 5000 strong so we shall evidently have a fight again tomorrow morning. We have had a fairly comfortable march from Gyantsee though one day we had to pitch our tents in pouring rain. I was very glad to leave Gyantsee as I had a very dusty camping ground and my Hospital was full of sick. We have now left most of the Sick behind. I don't think it will be Tibet for you - as we have left Haswall and most of the Bengal and Madras Sappers behind at Chumbi so evidently the General does not think this will be much work for the Sappers. The principal things to bring up however are: a small 40lb tent, Poshteens, Gilgit Boots, warm coat, Kakhi Serge Uniform and some cool clothes supposing you remain at Chumbi and do not come up high, also one box of stores - so there. It has not been really cold for some time but I expect we shall be up here for another winter. We captured a convoy of 118 yaks from the Tibetans last night. They were returning from taking food to the enemy at the Karola and were unluckily for them, ran in to our Mounted Infantry. We are all wondering if the Tibetans will wait for tomorrow. So long - not time for more, am very fit and well.

Your affectionate brother Cecil.

Gyantsee 11-07-1904

My Dear Bertie,

We have now been here for a fortnight and on the whole I have done a fair amount of work including the taking of the "Tony". We started our fighting at Haini Monastery - 6 miles from Gyantsee - and the same evening came on here. The day after we arrived we had a rest and general look around. The Tony and the Monastery fired upon us most of the day but we had encamped out of range. The next day we moved out of the camp at 3am and began surrounding the villages around Gyantsee - most of which we took very easily. One on the side of a hill gave us a lot of trouble and had to be stormed by the Gurkhas and Pathans from both sides - here Captain Caas of the 40th Pathans and two other officers were wounded, beside some Sepoys. We got back to our new camp, the north side of the Tony at 8.30pm in the dark.

The next morning we had an armistice with the Tibetans as some delegates from Lhassa had arrived - this continued for three days - with no result. We now determined however to make our big attack on the "Tony" so at midnight on the 5th we moved out and took up our positions on the south east side of the Tony at Palla village where I had orders to found a Dressing Station.

At 3.30 all the Tibetans at the front of the Tony discovered us and began firing vigorously. Here the Sappers and Miners were trying to blow up a house - to form our first point of attack. Directly the explosion occurred, our attack began and continued for several hours, we eventually took the village at the foot of the Tony. At 5pm two fresh companies - of Gurkhas and Royal Fusiliers - were ordered to storm the side of the Tony through a breach in the Tony's walls made by the 7th M Battery. Under a tremendous fusillade and the shells of the Battery and Maxim fire! These troups made their way up the side of the Tony, beating back the Tibetans. It was a grand sight to see, our shells bursting only a few yards in front of our men thus clearing the Tibetans out of our way. As they ran out like rabbits from their covered ways and holes and from behind their Sanyars, so they were shot by the Maxim and rifle fire. At 6.46pm we had won the Tony after 16 hours of fighting. We had about 20 casualties including Gurdan of 32nd Pioneers, who was working with the Sappers and Miners. Sheppard as usual had a charmed life.

The next day we had a rest which we were very glad of as I had a lot to do in the hospital. Only one case required an operation - Bowden Smith, Lieutenant R& required a bullet extracted from the back of his neck. The next day I had to go with part of my hospital to Gyantsee - 14 miles from here - where the enemy were supposed to have fled to - but on arriving we found they had again retired. So we went one day and came back the next. During my absence a Company of the Fusiliers had been more or less blown up by gunpowder in the Tony so on my return I had my hands full dressing about a dozen badly burnt men - none luckily were killed.

This is a filthy camp here - clouds of dust all day long and one looks a regular sweep. I have received your letters alright and was delighted to hear of your good Shikar. I hear you are on your way back now - so I think I had better address this to Rao. We are now preparing for our advance to Lhassa. The orders at present are for Thursday the 14th. If you can manage to send me a couple of boxes of cigarettes I shall be glad, We shall probably get a parcel post on from here sometime or other. I hope to pick up some more "loot" curios tomorrow, but except as curios they are of no value.

Hoping you are fit - I am the above but somewhat "tired" - you know what I mean - a little comfort and luxury would be appreciated.

Your affectionate brother

Cecil.